James Cook had been appointed to complete a survey of the coast of Newfoundland, especially those parts previously under French control and known as the "French shore". In 1763, he had carried out some surveys beginning with the islands of St.-Pierre and Miquelon, which were being returned to the French. When they had been surveyed Cook went to St. John's where he found a schooner, the Grenville, waiting for him. The schooner had been purchased by Thomas Graves, the Governor, for Cook to use in his survey work. Cook sailed the Grenville to the north of Newfoundland and surveyed several harbours there and in Labrador.
Britain's presence in Newfoundland was still tenuous and the Navy and fishermen usually returned to Britain to miss the cold Newfoundland winter. Cook, therefore, followed suit and after finishing his work returned to St. John's and then on to Britain in October 1763. Back in London, he rejoined his family and began to draw up the results of that year's survey. This would become a regular pattern fo Cook over the next few years; summers in Newfoundland surveying; winters in London with family and preparing the results of the previous year for publication.
Cook returned to Newfoundland in 1764 aboard HMS Lark. The ship left Britain on 07 May and arrived in St. John's on 14 June when this record commences. A new Governor, Hugh Palliser, had taken over and he arrived himself aboard his ship, HMS Guernsey a few days after Cook.
One of Cook's first actions was to read several documents to his new crew to assert his authority. The first of these documents was "The Act for amending, explaining and reducing into one Act of Parliament, the Laws relating to the Government of His Majesty’s Ships, Vessels and Forces by Sea". Cook refers to this as the abstract of the Late Act of Parliament. It had become law in 1749 as CAP. XXXIII of Anno vicesimo secundo George II. A significant part of the Act comprised the "Articles of War", which set out all the rules and regulations (and punishments) by which a Royal Navy ship operated. Even though they commonly known as the "Articles of War", the Act itself specifically stated that the Articles and Orders "shall be duly observed and put in execution as well in time of peace as in time of of war".
William Parker was the mate and assistant
surveyor from 1764 until 1766. He was replaced in 1767 by
Michael Lane,. Parker later rose to the rank of
rear admiral and was created a baronet.
Lane took over from Cook and completed the Newfoundland survey after Cook was chosen
for the Endeavour voyage. Several other crew members joined Cook on the
Endeavour.
The crew on board the
Grenville for 1764 was recorded on
that year's Muster Roll. Most of the crew had been carried across the Atlantic by
HMS Lark.
Others were requisitioned from other vessels in St. John's Harbour.
William Parker was transferred from HMS Guernsey
to be Cook's deputy as master's mate and assistant surveyor and took
responsibility for sailing the Grenville and writing up the log. As well as
Cook, Peter Flower returned to Newfoundland having been with Cook in 1763.
Cook, James. Master and Surveyor. From the Lark.
The following men are mentioned in the Log but do not appear in the Muster:
Heavon, Christopher. Punished for mutiny at St. John's on 17 October 1764.
The following men ran in Portsmouth before the Lark sailed:
Barrall, William.
The following ran in St. John's before the Grenville went north.
Alder, John.
AM Came on
board Carpenters from the Guernsey Employed as before. AM Hove down.
the larboard. side. Arrived here His
Majesty's sloop Spy
and saluted the Commodore, which he returned. AM Hove the
starboard.
side. AM The Carpenters employed
caulking the sides. Seamen employed getting in ballast. Ordnance
stores were materials, stores, or supplies; implements of war;
missiles discharged in war.
AM Unshipped the rother and sent it on board the
Guernsey to be mended.
After nearly three weeks preparing the Grenville for action Cook was finally
departing St. John's to begin the 1764 survey. This was to cover the Newfoundland
shore of the Strait of Belle Isle from Quirpon to Pointe Riche.
(4) Ditto weather with rain. (8) Took one reef in the foresail. A reef point is a short
length of line attached to the sails in order to tie the reefed part of the
sail to the yard. To reef is to reduce the extent of a sail by taking in
or rolling up a part and securing it. The log was an instrument for
measuring the distance sailed through the water, and hence the ship's speed. It
was let into the water on a line. A league is a measure of distance of
approximately 3 nautical miles. (4) Light
airs and clear. (5)
Loosed all the reefs out of the sails. Funk Island (49° 45'N, 53° 11'W)
is a tiny remote island, northeast of Cape Freels. Cape St. John
(50° 00'N, 55° 32'W) is the headland of a peninsula on the east side of
Central Newfoundland. The term Barrack Isles in Cook's time was applied to
the numerous tiny islands to the west of Fogo Island, on the east coast of
Newfoundland. (4) Light breezes and cloudy. (4) The body of Bell Isle SE by S, distance 2
leagues. Harbour of Conche NNW half league. Entrance of Carouge Harbour
NNE. The Grenville
was now heading towards the east coast of the Northern Peninsula. Cook had
surveyed Conche Harbour the previous year. Bell and Groais Islands
make up the Grey Islands (50° 50'N, 55° 25'W) off the east coast of the
Northern Peninsula.
(4) Ditto weather.
Carouge Harbour (50° 55'N, 55° 53'W ) is situated north of Conche on the
east side of the Northern Peninsula. The name Carouge was a corruption of
Cap Rouge (Red Cape) a headland just to the north of the inlet. A
fathom is a measure of 6 feet used in taking soundings or depths of water. At
noon the Red Cape W by S distance 3 miles. North end of Groais Island S by E
distance 2 leagues. W by N WNW (2) Light breezes and fair weather. (4) Cape de Grat on the island of Quirpon N half E 2
or 3 miles. Quirpon Island (51° 37'N, 55° 26'W) is the island off
the tip of the Northern Peninsula. Quirpon is a corruption of the Basque
name Cerpou. Cap de Grat (51° 37'N, 55° 24'W), is the eastern
point of Quirpon Island. Cape Bauld (51° 38'N, 55° 26'W) is the
northern point of Quirpon Island.
Between Croque and the Bay of Griguet are several good harbours, with excellent
fishing conveniences, particularly Great and Little St. Julian's, Grandsway,
Waterman's Cove, Whites Arm, Zealot, Feshot Goose Cove, Craimiliere, St.
Anthony, and St. Lunare, which are not yet accurately surveyed, but are laid
down in the chart according to good sketches and observations, taken by
officers of the King's ships on that station; there is no danger on the coast
but what lies very near the shore, except the small shoal of Braha, which lies
directly off the bay of the same name, 4 miles from land, on which the sea
breaks in bad weather.
Harbour Little Quirpon.
From Stormy Cape to Cape de Grat, on the Island of Quirpon is N. by E. distant 3
miles and a half; between which is the harbour of Little Quirpon, formed by the
island of that name; there is no danger going in, but the shore itself; it is a
small safe snug harbour, where fishing ships moor head and stern.
Island Quirpon.
Quirpon Island, which is the S.E. point that forms the entrance of the Streights of
Bell-Isle, is barren and mountainous; Cape de Grat on the S.E. side, and the highest
part of of this island may be seen in clear weather 12 leeagues.
White Islands.
These islands lay between Griguet and Cape de Grat, about 2 miles and a half from
the land, they are but small and of moderate height, on the inside of them are some
rocks, both above and under water, but not dangerous, as they discover themselves
even in fine weather; and the passage between them and the main, which is half a
league wide, is very safe.
De Grat and Pidgeon Coves.
These coves lay on the S.E. side of the island of Quirpon, and to the Northward of
Cape de Grat, in the mouth of which are some small islands and rocks above water;
behind these islands are shelter for shipping in 4 fathoms water, and convenient
places for shipping.
Harbour of Great Quirpon.
The passage into this harbour is on the N.W. side of the island of the same name,
between it and Graves's Island, which is an island in the mouth of the harbour, in
approaching the entrance you may make as free as you please with the Island Quirpon,
there being no danger but what shews itself until you come to the entrance of the
harbour, where there are shoals on your larboard side, which you avoid by keeping
Black-head upon Quirpon open of all the other land, until Cape Raven is brought over
Noddy Point; then haul in for the harbour, keeping about half a cable's length from
the point of Graves's Island; it is every where good anchoring within the said
island, and room and depth of water for any ships, and good ground; the best place
is in 9 fathoms water, up towards the upper end of Graves's Island, abreast of Green
Island, which lies about the middle of the harbour. The passage to the inner harbour
on either side of Green Island, is very good for ships of a moderate draft of water,
through which you will carry three fathoms; and above the island is exceeding good
anchoring in 7 fathoms; there is a passage into this place through Little Quirpon,
but it is too narrow and intricate for vessels to attempt, unless well acquainted:
In and about Quirpon are excellent conveniences for great number of ships, and good
fishing grounds about those parts: All the land about Griguet and Quirpon is
mountainous and appears a barren rock.
White Islands (51° 35'N, 55° 21'W)
Brehat (51° 25'N, 55° 24'W)
Great St. Julien Harbour (51° 06'N, 55° 44'W)
Little Quirpon Harbour (51° 35'N, 55° 26'W)
Quirpon Island (51° 37'N, 55° 26'W)
White Islands (51° 35'N, 55° 21'W)
Degrat Harbour (51° 37'N, 55° 25'W)
Quirpon Harbour (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Found riding here a French fishing ship. Noddy Bay (51° 35'N, 55° 29'W) (was Harbour) is an inlet on the
north coast of the northern end of the Nothern Peninsula. The two anchors
carried at the starboard and port bows are the bower anchors. The port anchor
is the small bower and the starboard is the best bower. A hawser is
a large rope or small cable, used in warping and mooring .
Cape Onion.
From Great Sacred Island to Cape Norman the course is West 13 miles, and to Cape
Onion, is S.W. by W. 2 miles; this capis the North point of Sacred Bay, it is pretty
high and steep, near to which is a very remarkable rock, called the Mewstone, like the
Mewstone in Plymouth Sound; to the Southward of the Mewstone is a small cove, where a
vessel may lie in safety.
Cape Onion (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Gull Rock lies north of Noddy Bay and
west of Cape Bauld. It is now known as League Rock.
calm WNW At 8 anchored
with the small bower and hawser in 21 fathoms, stony bottom. High rock of
Cape Ognon WNW. North part of the Great Isle Sacre N by E. At 8 AM
weighed and came to sail and stood out to sea. A cable is a unit
of measurement of 607.56 feet, or one-tenth of a sea mile. Great Sacred
Island (51° 38'N, 55° 34'W) lies across the mouth of Sacred Bay.
Cape Norman
or the easternmost land N by W. Burnt Cape N by E, distance 2 miles. The
outer part of the islands off Cape Norman N. The head of the SE bay S by E,
and the head of the SW bay SW by W. Distance offshore about half a mile.
At 8 AM sent one boat out toward Cape Norman and the other up the
SE bay to sound. Pistolet Bay (Baie du
Pistolet) (51° 33'N, 55° 48'W) is an inlet on the north coast of the
northern end of the Northern Peninsula, west of Sacred Bay. Cape
Norman (51° 38'N, 55° 54'W) is the headland to the northwest of Pistolet
Bay and the northernmost point of the Newfoundland mainland.
AM Surveyed and sounded the bay to the eastward of Burnt
Cape. The bay to
the immediate east of Burnt Cape is Ha Ha Bay.
At 4 AM got up the small bower
anchor. At 9 weighed and came to sail and plyed to windward in order to
sound the bay. To veer is to put a vessel on to the other
tack by putting the stern into the wind. W by N AM Employed in sounding and surveying the bay. AM It blew too strong for any boats to go from the schooner. AM Completed the survey of the coast as far as
Cape Norman and fixed flags there. The people on board employed getting up
the rigging fore and aft.
Cook's Harbour.
This [Cook's Harbour] is a small harbour, within the islands, at the N.W. part of
Pistolet Bay, and 2 miles to the S.E. of Cape Norman; to sail into it, you must take
care and give the Norman ledges which lie E.N.E. 1 mile off the North point, a good
birth. In going along shore, the mark to keep without these ledges is, to keep all the
land of Burnt Cape open without the outermost rocks, which lie on the South side of
the entrance to this harbour; if you are going in, as soon as you judge yourself to be
Southward of the Norman ledges you must steer in for the harbour, leaving the islands
on your larboard-side; you must keep the South shore close on board, for fear of a
ledge of rocks which spits out from a small rocky island, on the other side; as soon
as you are within that island, you must haul over for the North shore, and anchor in
4 or 5 fathoms water. In this harbour might be made several very convenient
fishing-rooms, and in the coves between it and Cape Norman might be built stages for
the boats to resort to, and to cure fish.
Cook's Harbour (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Cook, Peter. AB. Joined at St. John's.
Flower, Peter. AB. From the Lark.
Gathman, Francis. AB.
Gerring, Thomas. Master's servant. From the Lark.
Griffiths, James. AB.
McKenzie (McHensey), James. AB. From the Lark. (Punished for drunkenness at Noddy
on 20 August 1764).
Parker, William. Master's Mate and Assistant Surveyor. From the Guernsey.
Walsh, William. AB. Joined at St. John's.
Young, John. AB. (Punished at St. John's on 17 October 1764).
Jefferies, Henry. Punished for drunkenness at Noddy on 20 August 1764.
Shepherd, Andrew. Punished for drunkenness at Noddy on 20 August 1764.
Stamp, Richard. Remarks etc on Board His Majesty's Schooner the Grenville, James Cook Master,
between the 14th of June 1764 and the 15th of January 1765. Part 1: June to
August.
At the beginning of the month, Cook was crossing the Atlantic on board HMS Lark,
captained by Captain Samuel Thompson. They arrived at St. John's on the 14th and Cook
immediately took charge of the schooner Grenville that would be his surveying
vessel until the end of 1767. He set about preparing it for that season's work.
Week
DaysMonth
DayWinds
Weather
Remarks
Notes
Thursday
(at anchor log)14th Jun.
Southerly
The first and middle parts moderate and hazy
weather the later foggy.
At 1 PM His Majesty's Ship the
Lark
anchored here in St. John's Harbour, Newfoundland from England on board
of which came the Master and Company of this Schooner, went on board and took
possession of her. Read over to the crew the
Master's warrant,
Articles of War and
Abstract of the Late Act of Parliament.
Friday
15th
Southerly
The first part moderate and clear the remainder
hazy with very showers variable of rain.
Condemmed the fore rigging by survey.
Overhauled all the running rigging and found a good many articles wanting.
Received from the Lark 50 fathoms 4 inch rope to make fore
shrouds.
Employed fixing them and rigging the masts. Caulkers and shipwrights employed
caulking the sides, filling up the
bulk heads and repairing the decks.
Saturday
16th
Southerly
The first part fresh gales with rain, the
remainder moderate and cloudy.
The seamen employed rigging the
schooner.
Carpenters etc employed as per last.
Sunday
17th
variable
NW by WLight airs and cloudy weather.
Received on board part of our stores from the
Lark. The people employed as before.
Monday
18th
WSW
variableThe first part moderate and clear the later
light airs.
At 6 AM hauled alongside a wharf and got our
stores out. At 11 came in here His Majesty's ships
Guernsey and
Tweed. The
Lark
and Tweed, with the garrison, saluted
the Commodore, which he returned.
Tuesday
19th
Light airs and hazy weather.
PM employed getting out
ballast.
Wednesday
20th
Calm
WThe first and middle parts moderate and fair.
The later fresh gales and squally
Carpenters employed
caulking.the sides.
Employed getting ballast on board.
Thursday
21st
W
variableThe first and middle parts fresh gales and
squally. The later light airs.
PM Employed getting the schooner ready to be
hove down.
Friday
22nd
WNW
NW The First and middle parts moderate and hazy
the later fair.
PM Righted ship.
Saturday
23rd
NW
Moderate and clear.
PM Righted ship.
Sunday
24th
ENE
NEDitto
Employed getting in ballast. Carpenters
employed as before.
Monday
25th
variable
ESEThe first and middle parts fresh breezes and
cloudy with rain. The later light airs and clear.
AM The schooner company were discharged from
the Lark. Employed as before.
Tuesday
26th
ENE
Light airs and clear weather.
Carpenters employed on board. Received our stores on board from
the Lark as also 412 lb of bread and 12 pieces of beef from the
Guernsey and began sea victualling.
Victualling is the action of providing or
storing a ship with victuals, ie food or provisions of any kind.
Wednesday
27th
WNW
The first and middle parts fresh breezes and
cloudy. The later light airs and clear.
PM Sailed hence His Majesty's Ship, the
Lark. Received on board provisions of all species from the
Guernsey. Carpenters employed as before.
Thursday
28th
NW
Fresh gales and cloudy weather.
Employed about the rigging. Carpenters employed
caulking the decks.
Friday
29th
W by S
Fresh gales and squally.
Carpenters employed on board. The seamen
employed reefing the running rigging. AM Received ordnance stores on
board.
Running rigging comprises the ropes or
chains employed to work or set the yards, sails, etc.
Saturday
30th Jun.
The first and middle parts fresh gales and
squally. The later light airs and clear.
AM Employed scraping the the sides. Carpenters
employed repairing the boats, anchors. Here His Majesty's sloop
Zephyr,
who saluted the Commodore, which he returned.
A
squall is a sudden and violent gust, a blast or
short sharp storm, of wind.
At the beginning of the month, the Grenville was still in St. John's, stocking
up and being prepared for the season's survey. It left port on the 4th and sailed north.
On the 13th, Cook began surveying around Sacred Bay, to the west of Quirpon. By the end
of the month the Grenville had reached Cook's Harbour in Pistolet Bay.
Week
DaysMonth
DayWinds
Weather
Remarks
Notes
Sunday
1st Jul.
calm
NW Light airs and clear weather.
PM Employed painting the schooner and getting
our sails on board.
Rother is an old term for a rudder.
Monday
2nd
variable
Ditto weather.
Employed getting our beer and water on board.
Carpenters employed as before.
Tuesday
3rd
W
WSWThe first part light airs and cloudy. The
later fresh gales and squally.
Employed getting ready for sea.
Wednesday
4th Jul.
W
N
S by ELight airs and clear weather.
At 5 AM weighed and ran out of the Harbour in
company with His Majesty's Ships Guernsey and Tweed. At 10,
parted company and stood to the northward.
To weigh is to heave up the ship's anchor from
the sea bed, before sailing.
Week
DaysMonth
DayWinds
Weather
Remarks
Notes
Friday
5th Jul.
S by E
(9) Fresh gales and hazy with some rain.
(12)
Ditto weather.
(8) Ditto weather.
(9) Strong gales and thick hazy weather with rain.
(12) Ditto weather. (9) Bacoleau Island Distance 4 Leagues.
Took 2 reef in the mainsail.
(10) Took
the 3rd reef in mainsail.
(11) Lost a logg and 4 lines.
(12) The
island of Bacoleau N by E half E (?). Distance 36 leagues.Baccalieu Island (48° 08'N, 52° 48'W) is
a samll island off the Baye de Verde peninsula.
Saturday
6th
ESE
NNE
NE by E
N
SW(1) Strong gales and thick hazy weather with.
(8) more moderate and cloudy.
(12) Fresh gales and cloudy.
(8) Ditto weather.
(12) Ditto weather.(1) Passed close by a small ledge of rocks
whereon the sea broke. Judged it to be one of those that lies near the Funk
Island. Lowered down fore and mainsails.
(9) Set the mainsail.
(8) Cape St. John SW by W
distance 6 or 7 leagues.
(12) Tacked to the northward. Cape St. John and
the Barrack Isle bear each other NW by W and SE by E. Distance about 17
or 18 leagues.The Grenville was sailing northwest
across the face of Notre Dame Bay.
Sunday
7th
SW
SW by W
WSW
SW(1) Moderate breezes and clear weather.
(4) Ditto weather.
(8) Ditto weather.
(12) Fresh breezes and cloudy.
(12) Ditto weather. (4) Cape St. John WNW distance 2 leagues.
(6) Gull Island off Cape St. John. SW distance 1 league.
(8) At half past,
the east end of Isle Bell Isle x by N the west end N half E.
(10) Isle St.
Barbe NW by W.
(12) The north end of Groais Island distance 4 leagues.Isle St. Barbe was an early name for the Horse
Islands (50° 13'N, 55° 48'W) northwest of Cape St. John.
Sailing Directions
Notes
Isle Groias. On the N. E. coast of
Newfoundland, about 2 leagues from the main, are two islands, the
Northernmost of which is called Groias, the North end of this island is in
the latitude of 51 deg. 00 min. North: at about two miles distance from this
North end are some rocks high above the water.
Croque. The Harbour of Croque bears N.W. by W. half W. 2 leagues from
the North end of Groias Island, the entrance is not easily distinguished by
strangers till you draw near it, then you will discover a small island, or
rock close to the South head of the harbour, you may stand bold in with the
land, there being no danger but what shews itself, and lies very near the
shore; as soon as you are within the heads you will open the two arms, that
to the S.W. is not safe to anchor in, being foul ground, and open to the N.E.
winds; you may run up into the N.W. arm until you are landlocked, and anchor
where you please, from 16 to 10 fathoms water, every where very good ground.
This is an excellent harbour, very convenient for the fishery, and plenty of
wood and water.
Groias Island (50° 56'N, 55° 36'W) one of the Grey
Islands
Week
DaysMonth
DayWinds
Weather
Remarks
Notes
Monday
8th Jul.
NE by E
(1) Fresh gales and cloudy weather.
(5) Ditto
weather.
(12) Ditto weather.
(8) Strong gales
and cloudy weather.
(12) Ditto weather. (1)Flying to windward.
(5) Bore away for
Carouge Harbour. (7) Anchored in the SW arm in 19 fathoms water. Found riding
here four French fishing ships.Cook had arrived in Carouge Harbour.
Monday
9th Jul.
ENE
NNEThese twenty four hours. Strong gales and hazy
weather with rain.
The people employed in fitting the boats oars
and making of small flags for the survey.
Tuesday
10th
NNW
WNWThe first part fresh gales and hazy with rain.
The later moderate and fair.
AM The people employed making signal flags for
surveying and knotting yarn, etc. at 7 AM weighed and came to sail.
Lat . per obs: 50° 59' 30"The Grenville left Carouge and sailed north.
Wednesday
11th
SW
(1) Moderate breezes and clear weather.
(12) Calm and clear.
(4) Ditto
weather.
(8) Fresh gales and foggy.
(11) Fine clear weather.(7) Cape St. Anthony NNW half N 4 miles. Quirpon
NNE half E. Sounded 70 fathoms.
(12) Sounded 45 fathoms. Distance off
shore about 1 league.
(8) Cape de Grat S by W 6 or 7 miles. Cape de Oignon W.
(11) Flying to windward of the island Quirpon. Cape de Grat west distance
2 miles. Bauld Cape NW distance 1 league. Cape St. Anthony (51° 20'N, 55° 20'W) is
a headland on the east coast of the northern extremity of the Northern
Peninsula.
Sailing Directions
Notes
Course from Groias to the White Islands.
From the North end of Groias Island, along the coast to the White Islands, the
true course is N. by E. 12 leagues, but to give these islands, and the Braha
Shoal a proper birth, make a N.N.E. course.
Croque (51° 03'N, 55° 48'W)
Little St. Julien Harbour (51° 06'N, 55° 44'W)
Grandois (Grandsway) Harbour (51° 06'N, 55° 45'W)
Waterman's Cove (51° 'N, 55° 'W)
Whites Arm (51° 'N, 55° 'W)
Four Harbour (Zealot) (51° 11'N, 55° 44'W)
Fischot Harbour (51° 11'N, 55° 41'W)
North of Hare Bay
Goose Cove (51° 18'N, 55° 39'W)
Crémaillère Harbour (51° 20'N, 55° 36'W)
St. Anthony Harbour (51° 21'N, 55° 35'W)
St. Lunaire (51° 29'N, 55° 29'W)
Cape Degrat (51° 37'N, 55° 25'W)
Barrack Rocks (51° 35'N, 55° 23'W)
Pigeon Cove (51° 38'N, 55° 26'W)
Cod Cove Point (Black Head) (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Nobles (Grave's) Island (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Salt (Green) Island (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Week
DaysMonth
DayWinds
Weather
Remarks
Notes
Thursday
12th Jul.
The first and middle parts light breezes and
clear. The later little wind and hazy with very heavy showers of rain.
At 1 PM anchored in Noddy Harbour in 5
fathoms water just above the isle and moored ship with the small bower
and hawser.
Cook anchored the Grenville in Noddy
Bay.
Sailing Directions
Notes
Noddy Harbour.
This harbour which lies a little to the Westward of Quirpon, runs in S.S.W. between
Noddy Point and Cape Raven, which forms the entrance of the harbour; there is no
danger in going in; the passage in is on the West-side of a small island that lies
about three quarters of a mile within the heads, and you anchor as soon as above it
in 5 fathoms water; or with small vessels you may run up into the bason, and anchor
in 2 and a half or three fathoms; within the island, on the East side of the harbour,
is a stage, and very convenient rooms for many fishing ships.
Lancy Ball Point (Noddy Point) (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Noddy Bay Head (Cape Raven) (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Noddy Bay (Noddy Harbour) (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Week
DaysMonth
DayWinds
Weather
Remarks
Notes
Friday
13th Jul.
SE
WThe first part ditto weather. The remainder
fresh gales and cloudy. At 4 PM the weather cleared up.
Set out with the boats to sound off Sacre. AM
it blew too fresh to put to sea with the boats.
The season's survey had begun when the small
boats left the Grenville.
Saturday
14th
SE
WFresh gales and clear weather.
PM Went into the Bay Sacre, measured a
base line and fixed some flags on the different islands etc.
The people
employed in wooding and watering.Sacred Bay (Baie du Sacre) (51° 35'N,
55° 38'W) is an inlet on the north coast of the northern end of the Nothern
Peninsula, just to the west of Noddy Bay.
Sailing Directions
Notes
Sacred Bay.
Within them, to the S.W. is Sacred Bay, which is pretty large, wherein are a great
number of small islands and rocks above water; the land at the bottom of this bay is
covered with wood: This place is resorted to only for wood for the use of the fishery
at Quirpon, Griguet, and places adjacent, where wood is scarce.
Sacred Bay (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Mewstone (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Onion Cove (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Week
DaysMonth
DayWinds
Weather
Remarks
Notes
Sunday
15th
WNW
The first and later parts fresh gales and
clear weather. The middle hazy.
Employed sounding the Bay du Sacre and fixing
flags on Cape de Ognon.
Cape Onion (Cap du Oignon) (51° 37'N,
55° 38'W) is a headland on the north coast of the Northern Peninsula
between Sacred and Pistolet Bays.
Monday
16th
W
Fresh gales and hazy.
Employed in surveying and sounding the Bay
Sacre and getting wood, water and beer on board.
To sound is to employ the line and lead in
order to ascertain the depth of the sea, a channel, etc., or the
nature of the bottom.
Tuesday
17th
ditto
variableThe first part fresh gales and cloudy. The
remainder little wind and thick foggy weather.
PM Employed as per last.
Wednesday
18th
Ditto
NNEThe first part ditto weather. The remainder
fresh breezes and thick hazy weather with rain.
Thursday
19th
Ditto
All these twenty four hours fresh gales and
thick hazy weather with rain.
Friday
20th
Ditto
variableThe first part ditto weather. The remainder
moderate and cloudy.
This day finished the survey of Sacre Bay and
islands.
Saturday
21st
Ditto
Variable breezes and clear weather.
At 6 AM Weighed and came to sail and stood out
to sea. Light breezes at west. At noon Cap de Grat bore south and the Gull
Rock SSW. Distance 3 miles, found a current setting to the SE.
Having completed his first survey, Cook sailed
the Grenville west.
Sailing Directions
Notes
Gull Rock, Maria Ledge and N.W. Ledge.
In turning up towards Quirpon and Noddy Harbour, you may stand pretty near to the Gull
Rock and Maria Ledge, which are above water, and both of them about half a league from
the land of Quirpon; the passage between them is also half a league wide, and very
safe, taking care only to keep near to Gull Rock to avoid the N.W. ledge, which ledge
does not appear but in bad weather; in the passage between the N.W. ledge and the
main, are many rocks and shallow water.
League (Gull) Rock (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Barrack Rocks (Maria Ledge) (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
N.W. Ledge (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Week
DaysMonth
DayWinds
Weather
Remarks
Notes
Sunday
22nd
W
Light breezes
At 3PM the current shifted to the westward,
kept plying to windward off the island Sacre and kept sounding
continually. Had at the distance of 2 leagues offshore 31 fathoms and within
2 cables length off the island 29 fathom. Stony bottom.
To ply is to beat up against the wind; to
work to windward, putting the vessel about frequently.
Sailing Directions
Notes
Sacred Islands.
The course from Bauld Cape, which is the Northern Extremity of Quirpon, to the Great
Sacred Island, is West 2 leagues; this course will carry you the same distance without
Gull Rock, as you pass without Bauld Cape. Little Sacred Island lies E.S.E. from the
great island one mile, the passage between them is very safe, and you may sail round
them both; they are high and bold.
Cape Bauld (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Great Sacred Island (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Little Sacred Island (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Week
DaysMonth
DayWinds
Weather
Remarks
Notes
Monday
23rd Jul.
NE
The first part moderate breezes and cloudy
then later light airs and clear.
At half past 8 AM anchored in the Bay of
Pistolet in 3 and a half fathoms water, hard flat bottom.
The Grenville had anchored in Pistolet
Bay and the second detailed survey began.
Tuesday
24th Jul.
W
W by NThe first part fresh breezes and clear weather.
The later cloudy.
PM One boat employed in sounding about the
islands and the west side of the bay and the other up the SE bay.
Burnt Cape(Cap Brouile) (51° 35'N,
55° 44'W) is the headland to the east of Pistolet Bay.
Sailing Directions
Notes
Burnt Cape and Bay of Ha Ha.
From Cape Onion to Burnt Cape the course is W.S.W. distance 5 miles; the shore between
them is bold, and of moderate height; Burnt Cape appears white, and rises gradually
from the sea to a tolerable height: On the East side of the cape lies the entrance to
the bay Ha, Ha, which runs in S.S.W. 2 miles; when within Burnt Cape, you may anchor
in six or seven fathoms, open only to the N.E. winds; or you may run up into the
harbour, where you lie land-locked in 3 fathoms. Here is good conveniences for fishing
ships, and plenty of wood for their use.
Burnt Cape (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Ha Ha Bay (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Week
DaysMonth
DayWinds
Weather
Remarks
Notes
Wednesday
25th
Ditto
WThe first part fresh gales and cloudy. The
remainder more moderate.
PM Got down topsails and cross jack
again. At 7 the small bower cable parted. Let go the other anchor and
veered away on it and the hawser.
A cross-jack is a square sail bent to
the lower yard of the mast.
Thursday
26th
Ditto
The first and later parts fresh gales and
clear. The middle moderate with heavy showers of rain.
At 7 PM anchored in 4 and a half fathoms water,
stony bottom. Burnt Cape E by N half N. Outermost islands on the west side
NE by N. Distance off the westernmost shore 2 miles and about a mile from
the SW head of the bay.
The Grenville moved within Pistolet Bay
as the detailed survey continued.
Friday
27th
W
NWThe first part fresh gales and clear. The
remainder strong gales and thick gloomy weather.
At 6 PM and stood close into the north shore
and anchored in 4 fathoms water. Finished the survey of the south side of
the bay.
Saturday
28th
W
NNWThe first part ditto weather. The remainder
more moderate and too foggy to carry on the survey.
Employed wooding and watering.
Sunday
29th
Calm
ENE
NEThe fore and middle parts light airs and calm
with heavy showers of rain. The later strong gales and hazy weather.
At 9 AM the small bower anchor parted. Let go
the other anchor and veered away on both.
Monday
30th
Ditto
N
W by SThe first part strong gales and hazy with heavy
showers of rain. Middle more moderate. Later fresh breezes and clear.
At 6 AM weighed and stood out of the bay and
plyed up to Cape Norman. Had the boat at the same time plying to windward
within us. At noon the Cape bore W by S half a mile. Had then 19 fathoms
water.
Tuesday
31st Jul.
W by S
VariableThe first part fresh breezes and clear weather.
The remainder light airs and hazy.
At 4 PM anchored in a small harbour formed by
the islands which lie to the SE of Cape Norman in 4 and a half fathoms water.
Coarse gravelly bottom.
The Grenville had moved to the bay now
known as Cook's Harbour. This name appears on Cook's chart but who actually
applied the name and whether it was for Cook is not clear.
Sailing Directions
Notes
Bay of Pistolet. Cape Norman, from Burnt Cape, bears N.W. by W. ¼ W. 7 miles. Between them is the bay
of Pistolet, which runs in S.S.W. and extends several miles every way, with good
anchoring in most parts of it, particularly on the West-side, a little above the
islands, which lie on the same side in 5 fathoms water. The shore about this bay is
tolerably well covered with wood, boats frequently come here for wood from Quirpon.
Pistolet Bay (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Boisee Islands (Wood Isles) (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Cook (North) Point (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Norman Ledges (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
Green and Schooner Islands (51° 3'N, 55° 2'W)
| Week Days |
Month Day |
Winds | Weather | Remarks | Notes |
| Wednesday | 1st Aug. | SE calm |
The first part moderate breezes and calm with rain. The later calm and foggy. | Employed sounding and surveying the harbour. | |
| Thursday | 2nd | Ditto variable W |
The first part calm and foggy. The middle hazy with rain. The remainder more moderate and clear. | PM Completed the survey of the harbour and
islands etc. At 9 AM got under sail and put to sea. At noon took the sun's meridian altitude on shore and found Cape Norman to be in Latitude 51° 39' North. |
The Grenville returned to sea and began
sailing to the west past Cape Norman. Measurement of the Sun's meridian altitude (or noon sight) allowed latitude to be calculated. |
| Friday | 3rd | WSW W SW calm NW by W W by S S |
(1) Moderate breezes and fair weather. (8) Ditto weather. (4) Light airs and clear. |
(1) Stood out of bay to the northward and
sounded at small distances between Capes Norman and Brouile. (7) Continued sounding. (8) Cape Norman west 4 miles. (6) The Master
with the cutter went a shore to continue the survey. |
The Grenville remained at sea while Cook
resumed the coastal survey beyond Cape Norman in the cutter. Cap Brouile was the French name for Burnt Cape. A cutter is a small boat belonging to a ship, fitted for rowing and sailing, and used for in shore work, including surveying. To bring-to (past tense - brought-to) is to stop a vessel by bringing her head to the wind. |
| Saturday | 4th | (1-4) Fresh breezes and hazy weather. (5) Fresh breezes and squally. (11) At 11 cleared up. (2) Strong gales
and hazy weather. |
(1-4) Took the 2nd reef in the mainsail
Standing to the westward and sounding as in the former. (5) A small island about 1 and half mile offshore, the extreme of which bore from SE to SW. About half a mile from it sounded 23 fathoms. Tacked and stood to the eastward. Half past 6 took the 3rd reef in the mainsail and reefed the foresail. Sounded 16 fathoms. (11) Saw the land. (2) Hauled down the main
and foresails. |
The Grenville was in the Strait of Belle
Isle in bad weather and trying to avoid trouble. The small island was Green Island. To tack is to work to windward changing course alternately from starboard to port tack. A jib is a triangular sail set on a stay before the foremast. To bend is to temporarily secure or join one rope with another or one rope with another object. |
|
| Sunday | 5th | NNW SW S by E S |
(1) Fresh gales and squally. (3) Ditto weather excessive hard squalls and a large sea. (7) At 7 something more moderate. (8) Fresh gales and sometimes some hard squalls. (3) At 3
AM more moderate. |
(1) Employed fitting the jib binding. (3) Wore and stood to the northward. Got the jibb bent and stowed. Found the lining of the foresail gone, hauled it down, mended. Close reefed and set it. (4) At 4 Cape Ognon W by S, the north end of Quirpon SE by E half E. (7) set the mains and close reefed it. Reefed the jibb and set the 3rd reef out of the foresail. (8) Cape de Grat on the island of Quirpon SW by S, the White Island S by W half W, the middle of Belle Isle NE by N. (3) Let the reefs out of the foresail and the 3rd reef out of
the mainsail. |
The White Islands (51° 35'N, 55° 21'W)
are a small group of islands to the east of Quirpon Island. Belle Isle (51° 56'N, 55° 23'W) is an island lying to the north of Newfoundland, off Labrador. It marks the eastern end of the Strait of Belle Isle. |
| Monday | 6th | S SW WSW |
(1) Moderate breezes and fair weather.
(9) Fresh breezes and fair weather |
(2) Came on board the cutter with the Master
who unfortunately had a large powder blown up and burnt his hand which
shattered it in a terrible manner and one of the people that stood hard by
suffered greatly by the same accident. Having no surgeon on board, bore away
for Noddy Harbour where a French fishing ship lay. (8) At 8 sent the boat in for the French surgeon. (10) At 10 the boat returned with the surgeon. (11) At 11 anchored in Noddy Harbour in 6 fathoms water, Noddy Isle NNE threequarters E. (9) Employed getting water on board. |
Cook had been injured and went back on board
the Grenville, which immediately took him to Noddy Bay in search of
a surgeon. Cook was treated by a French surgeon but his injuries forced a suspension in his involvement in the surveying. He needed time to recover. |
| Tuesday | 7th | WSW SW |
Fresh gales and fair weather. | Employed getting water on board and making nettles and gaskets for the sails. | A nettle is a small line composed of two or three rope yarns twisted together. It is used to fasten the service on the cable or to reef the sails. |
| Wednesday | 8th | S by W W by S |
The major part strong gales with rain. | The people employed as before and spinning spunyarn. | A spunyarn is a small line comprising two or three ropes twisted together. |
| Thursday | 9th | SW WSW |
Fresh breezes and cloudy weather. | Sent the boat with the Assistant Surveyor to survey the Bay of Griguet and the seacoast to the southward of Quirpon. Employed brewing on shore. | Cook did not want to waste time so while he
was recovering he sent the Assistant Surveyor, William Parker off to
Griquet to survey that inlet and the coast and bays in the vicinity. The Bay of Griquet (51° 32'N, 55° 28'W) is an inlet on the eastern end of the Northern Peninsula, south of Quirpon. |
| Sailing Directions | Notes |
| Griguet Bay and its contained harbours and islands.
The Bay of Griguet is situated on the N.E. coast of Newfoundland, in the
Latitude of 51 deg. 32 min. North; it is formed by Stormy Cape to the North,
and White Cape to the South, and contains several good harbours for shipping of
all kinds, wherein are many fishing conveniences. Camel's Island. This island lies in Griguet Bay, it is very high in the middle, like the back of a camel, and in sailing along the shore is difficult to be distinguished from the main. North Harbour and N.W. Harbour. The North Harbour lies within Stormy Cape, at the entrance of which is a rock above water; you may go on either side of this rock, it being bold to all round, and anchor near the head of the harbour in 6 fathoms water; in the entrance that leads to the N.W. and S.W. harbours, is a small rock island, which makes the passage into those harbours narrow; the safest passage is to the Northward of this island, giving the point of the entrance of the N.W. harbour a little birth; as soon as you are within the island you will open the two harbours; that of the N.W. which is the largest, runs in N.W. near two miles; to saile up to the head of the harbour, the West side is the safest; you will at first have 14, 16, and 18 fathoms water, and after you are a little within the point will meet with a bank, whereon is 7 and 8 fathoms, and as you approach the head, will shoalen your water gradually to 5 fathoms, every where good anchoring, and sheltered from all winds. S.W. Harbour. The S.W. harbour runs in near two miles behind Camel's Island, it is but a narrow arm, and has in it from 10 to 4 fathoms water; there is a shoal at the entrance, but neither it, or the harbour are yet sufficiently examined to give any directions about it here. Griguet Islands. The two islands of Griguet lay on the outside of Camel's Island, and together form between them several small, but very snug harbours for fishing vessels. |
Griquet Harbour (51° 32'N, 55° 27'W) Stormy Cape (51° 33'N, 55° 26'W) White Cape (51° 30'N, 55° 26'W) Camel Island (51° 32'N, 55° 27'W)
North Bay (51° 33'N, 55° 27'W) Southwest Bay (51° 32'N, 55° 28'W)
Griquet Island (51° 32'N, 55° 27'W) |
| Week Days |
Month Day |
Winds | Weather | Remarks | Notes |
| Friday | 10th | S WSW |
Ditto weather. | Employed mending the foresail. | The Assistant Surveyor was William Parker, who spent 3 summers in Newfoundalnd with Cook.He was born in Warwickshire on 01 January 1743 and had entered the Navy in 1756. He was present at the sieges of Louisbourg and Quebec. He married Jane Collingwood in 1766 and they had 7 daughters and 1 son. Parker became a rear admiral in 1794 and took part,under Jervis, in the Battle of Cape St. Vincent in 1797. He was knighted after the battle. He died on 31 October 1802. Parker River and Parker's Pond in northern Newfoundland are probably named for him. |
| Saturday | 11th | W WSW |
The first light airs and clear. The middle and later fresh breezes and cloudy. | Employed brewing. | |
| Sunday | 12th | WSW | Ditto weather. | Employed as before. | |
| Monday | 13th | Ditto | Fresh breezes and fair. | Employed as before. | |
| Tuesday | 14th | S WSW N by W |
The first and middle parts light airs with rain. Later fresh gales and hazy. | Employed mending the old jib and brewing. | |
| Wednesday | 15th | N by W NE |
The first part fresh gales and hazy. Later moderate. | PM The boat returned from surveying Griguet. | Parker had returned from his surveying of Griquet. |
| Thursday | 16th | ENE | The first part moderate. The later fresh breezes and hazy with rain. | Employed the people making nettles for the sails. | |
| Friday | 17th | SE WSW |
The first part fresh breezes with much rain. Later fair. | AM Dried sails. | |
| Saturday | 18th | WNW | The first part fresh gales with rain. Later more moderate. | Employed filing the new sails ready for bending, unbent the jibb, and bent the old one again, it being repaired. | |
| Sunday | 19th | WNW NNW |
The major part moderate with some rain. | PM Employed fitting out new sails. AM Scraped and cleaned the vessel. 2 men employed brewing of spruce essence. | Spruce essence or extract was made from the leaves and branches of the spruce fir and added to beer to help offset scurvy. |
| Monday | 20th | NNW NE |
Moderate breeze and fair weather. | PM Andrew Shepherd, Henry Jefferies and Peter
Flower were confined to the deck for drunkenness and mutiny. AM Employed getting of wood and mending the old mainsail. |
Peter Flower was born in Guernsey in 1750. He would join Cook on the Endeavour voyage in 1768 but drowned in Rio de Janeiro harbour in the December. |
| Tuesday | 21st | E SE WSW |
Major part moderate breezes and fair weather. | PM The people employed getting wood on board. AM Punished Andrew Shepherd (for the crimes before mentioned, he being the ringleader thereof) by running the Gantlope. Scraped the masts and payed them with tallow. Employed getting wood on board. |
The gantlope or gauntlet was a means of
punishment where the offender sat on a wooden grating and was pulled past seamen
who struck him with knotted cord (as in running the gauntlet). To pay is to smear (with pitch, tallow, etc) as a defence against the wet, especially sea water. Tallow is a grease or fat made from animal bones and applied as a protective coating. |
| Wednesday | 22nd | NE SSE |
The fist and later parts fair weather. The middle part breezes with rain. | Employed getting wood on board. AM Unstowed and stowed wood under the casks. |
|
| Thursday | 23rd Aug. | S | Major part fair weather. | PM Employed stowing the main hold. AM Employed stowing and putting the after hold in order. Painted the new foresail. Took observation on shore a little above Noddy Island and found Latitude to be 51 34' 4x"?? |
From 21 to 23 August Cook was visited by Jens Haven, a Moravian missionary, who was seeking assistance to reach the Labrador coast. Governor Hugh Palliser had been under instruction to assist Haven and three other missionaries. Cook was unable to take Haven across himself or to authorise Haven to travel with French fishing boats. However, on the 23rd Haven secured passage with some Irish fishing vessels then at Quirpon. The Moravians or United Brethren were a protestant church founded in Saxony by Moravian refugees in 1722. They held Hussite doctrines.
| Week Days |
Month Day |
Winds | Weather | Remarks | Notes |
| Friday | 24th | Ditto | Fresh breezes and fair weather. | PM Completed the after hold. AM Employed brewing and getting our empty water casks filled. And putting the rigging in order, ready for sea. |
|
| Saturday | 25th | Ditto | The first and middle parts moderate breezes and fair weather. The later fresh gales and squally. | Got our beer and water on board. | |
| Sunday | 26th | E ENE W |
The first part fresh gales and squally with rain. The later little wind and foggy. | At 3 AM unmoored and hove short on the small
bower anchor and weighed and came to sail. At noon Maria Point SE about 1 and half mile. |
Cook and the Grenville returned to
sea and sailed west for Cape Norman and beyond, finally able to resume the
survey after losing valuable days. Maria Point. |
| Monday | 27th | ENE E SSW |
(1) Light airs and foggy. (9) Light breezes with thunder, lightning and rain. (11) Moderate and hazy. (4) Ditto. |
(8) Burnt Cape S distance 1 and half miles. (9) Sounded 19 fathoms. (11) Sounded 36 fathoms. (1) Sounded 35
fathoms. |
|
| Tuesday | 28th | W NW by W |
(1) Light breezes and hazy. (4) Ditto weather. (5) Fresh breezes and hazy with rain. (12) Fresh gales and squally with rain. (4) Ditto weather with hard rain. |
(1) Tacked. Cape Norman NW by N. (6) Came to anchor in the Bay of Pistolet in 10 fathoms water. Burnt Cape bearing ESE , Jack Island E half S, outermost rock N by E. (11) Perceived her drive, veered away to a cable. |
The Grenville had anchored again in
Pistolet Bay. Jack Island To drive is to be forced to leeward by the wind and sea (or to run before a gale). |
| Wednesday | 29th | NW by W NW by W |
(1) Fresh breezes with rain. (4) Ditto weather and hazy. (8) Ditto weather. (12) Fresh gales and hazy weather. (4) Ditto weather. |
(7) Weighed and came to sail. Found one of the
flooks of the small bower anchor gone. Standing out of the bay. (12) Burnt Cape S half E. Cape Norman SW quarter W. Sounded 26 fathoms. |
The Grenville left Pistolet Bay. A fluke is a triangular flattened barb at the end of the anchor arm. |
| Thursday | 30th | NNW N by W |
(1) Fresh breezes and cloudy weather. (4) Little wind and cloudy. (8) Light breezes and cloudy. (12) Ditto weather. (4) Ditto weather. (8) Ditto weather. (12) Fresh breezes and cloudy. |
(4) Cape Norman SW by W. Distance 2 miles xx. (8) Cape Norman W half S. Half past tacked. (4) Cape Norman E by S.
Sounded 32 fathoms. |
The Grenville remained off the coast in the Strait of Belle Isle while Cook resumed surveying along the coast. |
| Friday | 31st Aug. | W W half S NE |
(1) Fresh breezes and cloudy. (8) Ditto weather. (12) Light breezes and cloudy. (2) Light airs with large
swell. |
(1) Running to the leeward to the boat. (2) half past 2 the boat came on board. Made sail and stood to the northward. (4) Cape Norman E by S half S 3 or 4 leagues. (10) Tacked. (12) Sounded 31 fathoms. (1) half past tacked. Sounded 30 fathoms. |
Cook went back on board but quickly returned
to the survey. The swell is the rising or heaving of the sea in a succession of long rolling waves. |