The Grenville left Deptford on 22 April 1765 and from 08 May to 31 May was crossing the Atlantic. Newfoundland was sighted on 01 June and the next day Cook anchored in Great St. Lawrence Harbour on the south coast of the Burin Peninsula. He began the survey on the 3rd of June.
| The crew on board the Grenville for 1765 was recorded on
that year's Muster Roll. The crew totalled 19 men in addition to the master and his mate.
William Parker was Cook's deputy as master's mate and assistant surveyor and took
responsibility for sailing the Grenville and writing up the log. As well as
Cook and Parker, four men returned to Newfoundland who had been with the Grenville
in 1764.
Cook, James. Master and Surveyor. (From 1764). Cook used four local pilots in 1765. They were:
Beck, John (around Great St. Laurence). The following men ran in Deptford before the Grenville sailed: Duncan, William; Dunford, Jeremiah; Hughy, Brice; Penlerick, John; Rainge, William; Sweby, Samuel; Wilson, Robert. |
| Week Days |
Month Day |
Winds | Weather | Remarks | Notes |
| Monday | 1st Apr. | E |
The Carpenters employed refitting the schooner in the dock. | The Grenville had been in Deptford Dockyard since its return the previous year being modified, at Cook's request, from a schooner to a brig. Cook felt a brig would handle better in coastal waters with a small crew. | |
| Tuesday | 2nd | SW | Fresh gales with rain. | Hauled out of the dock into the wet dock. AM Began getting the iron ballast in. |
A wet dock is a water-tight enclosure in which the water is maintained at the level of high tide, so that vessels remain constantly afloat in it for purposes of loading and unloading or for repair. |
| Wednesday | 3rd | WSW | Ditto weather. | PM Got all the iron ballast in, viz five tons. AM Raised shears and got the lower masts in. The draught of water then: foreward 7 feet 11½ inches; aft 4 feet 9½ inches. |
Shears. . The draught of a vessel is the depth of water required to float her, measured from the bottom of the keel to the water line. |
| Thursday | 4th | S | The first part fair weather. Later rain. | Employed getting the standing rigging over head. | Standing rigging |
| Friday | 5th | S | Fresh gales with frequent showers of rain. | PM Got the topmast and end. AM Employed about the rigging. |
|
| Saturday | 6th | ditto | Most part hard rain. | Employed as before. PM Struck the topmasts. |
To strike |
| Sunday | 7th | SW | Fresh gales and fair weather. | Employed as before. | |
| Monday | 8th | ditto | Strong gales with hard rain. | PM Employed as before. | |
| Tuesday | 9th | ditto | Ditto weather. | At 2 PM hauled out of the wet dock and transported alongside the Strombolo fire ship. Draught of water with the xxxx etc on board: foreward 5 feet 0 inches; aft 7 feet 11 inches. | A fire-ship was a vessel (usually old)
loaded with combustibles and explosives, and sent adrift among enemy ships to
destroy them. The name Strombolo was applied to various ships that were converted to being a fire-ship. This vessel had previously been the Owners Goodwill. Stromboli is a volcano in Italy. |
| Wednesday | 10th | ditto | Hard gales and rain. | PM Got all the shingle ballast in, viz about 20 tons. Draught of water: foreward 6 feet 0½ inches; aft 8 feet 2 inches. | |
| Thursday | 11th | S | Ditto weather. | PM Employed about the rigging. AM Received sixteen hogheads, eight barrels for water casks; two puncheons of beef, one hogshead and a half of pork. |
|
| Friday | 12th | variable | Major part fair weather. | Employed on the rigging. AM Received on board 30 bags of bread and 9 puncheons of ditto; two of beef and two of pork; with several dry casks. | |
| Saturday | 13th | ditto | Moderate and fair weather. | PM Received on board sixteen half hogsheads of
beer and one of brandy. AM Employed reefing the running rigging. |
|
| Sunday | 14th | ditto | Ditto weather with rain. | PM Employed as before. | |
| Monday | 15th | E | Ditto weather. | AM Employed as before. | |
| Tuesday | 16th | ditto | Ditto weather. | Employed as before and getting the stores on board. | |
| Wednesday | 17th | ESE | Ditto weather. | PM Received on board one jar of oil. Employed about the rigging. Got the sails on board. | |
| Thursday | 18th | E | Fresh gales and cloudy. | PM Employed about the rigging and making points
for the sails. AM Scraped the topmasts. |
|
| Friday | 19th | ditto | Ditto weather. | Employed as before. Bent the topsails. | |
| Saturday | 20th | NE | Ditto weather. | Employed getting the stores on board and bent the sails. | |
| Sunday | 21st | ENE | Strong gales and hazy. | AM Loosed the topsails. A pilot came on board. | |
| Monday | 22nd | ENE | Ditto weather. | AM Inxxx reef topsails. At half past 11 cast off the fasts and came to sail. | The Grenville was leaving Deptford to begin its journey down the Thames. |
| Tuesday | 23rd | NE ENE |
Fresh gales and cloudy. | At 1 PM anchored off Greenwich. At 3 weighed and came to sail. At half past 5 anchored off Woolwich Warren. | Another of the Royal Dockyards had been established at Woolwich Warren on the south bank of the Thames downstream from Greenwich. It was also the location of the Royal Arsenal where ships obtained their ordance supplies. |
| Wednesday | 24th | NE | Little winds and cloudy. | PM Received on board six swivel guns and other ordnance stores. At 4 weighed and came to sail. At 8 anchored in the lower part of Longreach. At 4 AM weighed. At 7 anchored at Gravesend. | Swivel guns. Ordnance stores. Gravesend (51° 26'N, 00° 22'E) is situated on the south side of the Thames, halfway between London and the North Sea. |
| Thursday | 25th | NNE | The first part little wind and rain. Later light airs. | At 2PM weighed and came to sail. At 8 anchored
off |
Yantlet Creek (Gantlot) (51° 28'N, 00° 40'E) separates the Isle of Grain from the rest of Kent, near the mouth of the River Thames. |
| Friday | 26th | ENE SSE SW |
Major part little wind. | At 3 PM weighed. At 8 anchored off the buoy of The Spaniard. At 3 weighed again. At 8 came on a thick fog. Anchored off Margate. | Margate (51° 23'N, 01° 23'E) is located on the north side of the Isle of Thanet in northeast Kent. |
| Saturday | 27th | SSE | The first part foggy. The later little wind. | At 4 AM weighed. At noon anchored with the small bower in The Downs in 6 fathoms water. | The Downs (51° 13'N, 01° 25'E) is located
off Deal in eastern Kent. It was an anchoring and assembly point for Royal
Navy ships. Cook had now left the Thames and was about to enter the English Channel. |
| Sunday | 28th | NE calm E |
Little wind and fair weather. | At 5PM weighed and came to sail. At midnight the South Foreland lights NE by N about 4 or 5 miles. At 8 Dungeness NW distance 3 leagues. At 11 came on a thick fog. | South Foreland (51° 08'N, 01° 22'E) is
the southeastern point of Kent between Deal and Dover. Dungeness (50° 55'N, 00° 58'E) is a headland on the Kent coast, southwest of Dover. |
| Monday | 29th | E | (1) Little wind and hazy. (8) Light wind and clear weather. (12) Ditto weather. (8) Light airs and forrgy
weather. |
(8) Beachy Head NNW distance 2
leagues.
|
Beachy Head (50° 44'N, 00° 15'E) is a prominent chalk cliff on the south coast of England, near Eastbourne in Sussex. |
| Tuesday | 30th Apr. | E N NNW NE WNW |
(1) Light breezes and foggy. (4) Ditto weather. (8) Light airs inclinable to calm. (11) Calm.
(6) Light breezes and fair. |
(3) Hauled down the studding sails. (9) Dunnose NW½W 5 or 6 leagues. (8) Dunnose N bt E 3 leagues. |
A studding sail is a sail set beyond the
leeches of any of the principal sails during a fair wind. Cook was approaching the Isle of Wight. As Dunnose is on the east coast of the Isle of Wight, some of Cook's sightings from the west are suspicious. He was more likely sighting St. Catherine's Point, the southern point of the island. |
| Week Days |
Month Day |
Winds | Weather | Remarks | Notes |
| Wednesday | 1st May | NW by W NW by N NNW W SW WSW |
(1) Moderate breezes and fair weather. (7) Fresh gales and cloudy. (12) Fresh breezes and cloudy. (4) Little
wind. |
(1) Tacked and stood to the northward. (6) Tacked. Dunnose E by S 2 miles. (x) In I reefs topsails.
(1) Tacked to the southward. |
The Needles (50° 39'N, 01° 35'W) are a series of chalk stacks off the west point of the Isle of Wight, off the south coast of England. |
| Thursday | 2nd | SW E by S NNE NNE |
(1) Light breezes and hazy with rain. (4) Little wind and cloudy. (8) Ditto weather. (12) Ditto weather.
(2) Strong gales and squally. |
(4) Portland NW½W, Dunnose E½S. (8) Portland NW; Needles NE by E, Dunnose E½S. (1) Portland lights N by E
4 or 5 miles. |
The Bill of Portland (50° 31'N, 02° 27'W)
is a prominent headland in Dorset, south of Weymouth. To hand a sail is to furl a sail. |
| Friday | 3rd | NNE |
(1) Fresh gales and clear weather. (8) Ditto weather. (12) Ditto weather. (4) Ditto weather. |
(2) Anchored with the best bower in Plymouth
Sound in 6 fathoms water. (4) Set up the rigging fore and aft. |
Brest backstays. Plymouth Sound (50° 21'N, 04° 08'W) is the estuary, south of Plymouth and between Rame Head and the Great Mew Stone. Cook had put briefly into Plymouth where the men were paid some wages though there would be few opportunities to spend mney in Newfoundland. |
| Saturday | 4th | NE SW W by N NE W |
(1) Light breezes and fair weather. (4) Fresh breezes and fair. (8) Ditto weather. (12) Light airs and fair. (4) Ditto weather. |
(5) Weighed and came to sail. (8) The Ramhead NW By W, distance 2 miles. (11) Tacked. The Eddystone SW half a mile. (12) Tacked. The Eddystone S½W, Ramhead E by N. (5) Set studding sails. |
Cook now set off for Newfoundland. |
| Sunday | 5th | W SE E by N |
(1) Fresh breezes and fair weather. (4) Ditto weather. (8) Moderate breezes and fair weather. (12) Ditto weather. (4) Ditto weather. |
(4) The Dodman's position NNW, distance 6
leagues. (6) Dodman NNW½W 3 or 4 leagues. (8) The Dodman N by E, Lizard W by N½N, distance 7 leagues. (4) Lizard NW½W, 3 leagues. |
Lizard Point (49° 57'N, 05° 12'W) is the point at the southern end of the Lizard Peninsula in Cornwall. |
| Monday | 6th | W NNW W by S |
(1) Fresh breezes and clear weather. (4) Ditto weather. (8) Ditto weather. (12) Ditto weather.
(4) Moderate breezes and hazy. |
(4) Tacked. Lizard ENE, distance 2 leagues. (6) Sounded 42 fathoms. White shells and stones. Lizard NE¼E, distance 2 leagues. (8) Lizard NNE, distance 4 or 5 leagues. (12) Tacked. (11) Sounded 38 fathoms. Broken shells. Wolf Rock NNE 2 miles. (12) Lizard E¾N, distance 8 leagues. Wolf Rock NE, distance 2 miles. |
Wolf Rock (49° 56'N, 05° 48'W) is a rock located 13 km to the SSW of Land's End. A lighthouse began operating in 1870. |
| Tuesday | 7th May | W W by N |
(1) Moderate breezes and cloudy weather. (8) Ditto weather. (12) Moderate breezes and clear weather. (3-4) Calm. |
(4) Tacked. Land's End NNE, distance 5 leagues.
Scilly Islands NW by W 6 or 7 leagues. (3-4) Her head to the SW. |
Land's End (50° 04'N, 05° 42'W) in
Cornwall is the southwestern extremity of the British mainland. The Scilly Isles (49° 55'N, 06° 17'W) are a group of small islands located 40 km to the WSW of Land's End. |
From Wednesday 08 May to Friday 31 May the Grenville was on the open sea crossing the Atlantic out of sight of land. The log records weather details and sailing operations. On Saturday 01 June Newfoundland came into sight.
| Day | Date | Course | Distance | Latitude | Longitude made |
Bearings and Distance at noon |
| Tuesday | 7th | E½S | 24 miles | 49º 35' N | Scilly N31ºW 12 leagues | |
| Wednesday | 8th | SW by W | 33 miles | 49º 17' N | Scilly N7ºE 52 miles | |
| Thursday | 9th | S83ºW | 92 miles | 49º 11' N | 2º 39' | Scilly N69ºE 37 leagues |
| Friday | 10th | S86ºW | 110 miles | 49º 03' N | 5º 26' | Scilly N77ºE 73 leagues |
| Saturday | 11th | W | 122 miles | 49º 04' N | 8º 32' | Scilly N82ºE 113 leagues |
| Sunday | 12th | S82ºW | 130 miles | 48º 47' N | 11º 48' | Scilly N82ºE 156 leagues |
| Monday | 13th | S79ºW | 118 miles | 48º 24' N | 14º 42' | Scilly N82ºE 195 leagues |
| Tuesday | 14th | S77ºW | 109 miles | 48º 00' N | 17º 23' | Scilly N81ºE 231 leagues |
| Wednesday | 15th | S60ºW | 91 miles | 47º 15' N | 19º 20' | Scilly N79ºE 261 leagues |
| Thursday | 16th | S73ºW | 28 miles | 47º 07' N | 20º 00' | Scilly N78ºE 270 leagues |
| Friday | 17th | N33ºW | 52 miles | 47º 48' N | 20º 49' | Scilly N79ºE 278 leagues |
| Saturday | 18th | S67ºW | 123 miles | 47º 00' N | 23º 30' | Scilly N79ºE 319 leagues |
| Sunday | 19th | S48ºW | 71 miles | 46º 07' N | 24º 45' | Scilly N77ºE 340 leagues |
| Monday | 20th | W | 27 miles | 46º 07' N | 25º 24' | Scilly N78ºE 348 leagues |
| Tuesday | 21st | N86ºW | 98 miles | 46º 14' N | 27º 46' | Scilly N79ºE 378 leagues |
| Wednesday | 22nd | W | 89 miles | 46º 15' N | 29º 55' | Scilly N80ºE 406 leagues |
| Thursday | 23rd | S64ºW | 26 miles | 46º 04' N | 30º 29' | Scilly N80ºE 414 leagues |
| Friday | 24th | W | 33 miles | 46º 04' N | 31º 17' | Scilly N80ºE 425 leagues |
| Saturday | 25th | S65ºW | 57 miles | 45º 40' N | 32º 31' | Scilly N79ºE 444 leagues |
| Sunday | 26th | N69ºW | 31 miles | 45º 51' N | 33º 13' | Scilly N80ºE 451 leagues |
| Monday | 27th | N72ºW | 126 miles | 46º 30' N | 36º 05' | Scilly N82ºE 488 leagues |
| Tuesday | 28th | N66ºW | 8 miles | 46º 33' N | 36º 15' | Scilly N82ºE 490 leagues |
| Wednesday | 29th | N88ºW | 105 miles | 46º 37' N | 38º 47' | Scilly N82ºE 524 leagues |
| Thursday | 30th | S88ºW | 79 miles | 46º 34' N | 40º 42' | Scilly N83ºE 546 leagues |
| Friday | 31st May | N88ºW | 131 miles | 46º 38' N | 43º 31' | Scilly N84ºE 584 leagues |
| Week Days |
Month Day |
Winds | Weather | Remarks | Notes |
| Saturday | 1st Jun. | N N by E N by W WSW |
(1) Very strong gales and hard squalls. (10) half past sprung up a light breeze. (12) Fresh breezes and very clear weather. |
(1) Saw the land from WNW to NNW. (2) Cape Race and Cape Bollard in one baering NE by E. (3) Set the main and fore top mast staysails. (4) Cape Race E by S, 3 leagues; Cape Pine W by N½N. (6) Cape Pine E, ¾ mile. Unstowed the anchors and bent the cables. (8) Cape St. Maria NW 8 or 9 leagues; an island in St. Maria Bay NNE. Sounded 20 fathoms rocky ground. (10) Made sail and let the reefs out of the topsails.
(4) Cape Pine E, distance 4 leagues; Cape St. Maria N. Sounded 33 fathoms. |
Cape Race (46° 40'N, 53° 04'W) is one of
the headlands at the southeastern corner of the Avalon Peninsula in
Newfoundland. Cape Ballard (Bollard) (46° 47'N, 52° 57'W) is another headland in southeatern Newfoundland, about 20 km north of Cape Race. Cape Pine (46° 37'N, 53° 32'W) is a headland on the Avalon Peninsula, about 20 km south-west of Trepassey. Cape St. Mary's (Maria) (46° 49'N, 54° 12'W) is the headland at the southwestern corner of the Avalon Peninsula. St. Mary's Bay (46° 55'N, 53° 45'W) is the large bay that subdivides the southern part of the Avalon Peninsuala into two. |
| Sunday | 2nd | WSW WSW SW SW SW by S |
(1) Fresh breezes and clear weather. (4) Ditto weather. (8) Ditto weather. (12) Ditto weather. (8) Thick hazy weather. |
(3) Set the fore topmast studding sail. (4) Hauled down the studding sail. Cape St. Mary's E by S 6 or 7 leagues. Reefed the topsails. (8) Cape Chaporouge WNW½N about 10 leagues. Sounded no ground with 45 fathom line. (10) Sounded 42 fathoms water. (11) Tacked. Sounded 47 fathoms water. (12) Offshore 2 leagues.
(1) In 2nd reef foretopsail. |
Cape Chapeau Rouge (46° 53'N, 55° 22'W)
is the headland forming the southwestern point of the entrance to Great St.
Lawrence Harbour. Great St. Lawrence Harbour (46° 54'N, 55° 22'W) is an inlet on the south coast of the Burin Peninsula, about 30 km southwest of Burin. HMS Niger was a 5th rate of 33 guns, built in 1759 at Sheerness Dockyard. It was under the command of Captain Sir Thomas Adams. William Munkhouse, who later sailed with Cook on the Endeavour, was the surgeon on the Niger. |
| Sailing Directions | Notes |
| Cape Chapeaurouge Cape Chapeaurouge, or the mountain of the Red Hat, is situated on the West-side of Placentia Bay, in the latitude of 46 deg. 53 min. North, and lies nearly West 17 or 18 leagues from Cape St. Maries; it is the highest and most remarkable land on that part of the coast, appearing above the rest somewhat like the crown of a hat, and may be seen in clear weather 12 leagues. Harbours of St. Laurence Close to the eastward of Cape Chapeaurouge are the harbours of Great and Little St. Laurence. To sail into Great St.Laurence, which is the westernmost, there is no danger but what lies very near the shore; taking care with Westerly, and particularly S.W. winds, not to come too near the Hat Mountain, to avoid the flerrys and eddy winds under the high land. The course in is first N.W. till you open the upper part of the harbour, then N.N.W.halfW. the best place for great ships to anchor, and the best ground is before a cove on the East-side of the harbour in 13 fathoms water. A little above Blue Beach Point, which is the first point on the West-side; here you lie only two points open: you may anchor any where between this point and the point of Low Beach, on the same side near the head of the harbour, observing that close to the West shore, the ground is not so good as on the other side. Fishing vessels lay at the head of the harbour above the beach, sheltered from all winds. To sail into Little St. Laurence you must keep the West shore on board, in order to avoid a sunken rock which lies a little without the point of the peninsula, which stretches from the East-side of the harbour: You anchor above this peninsula, (which covers you from the sea winds) in 3 and 4 fathoms water, a fine sandy bottom. In these harbours are good fishing conveniences, and plenty of wood and water. Ships may anchor without the peninsula in 12 fathoms good ground, but open to the S.S.E. winds. Sauker Head Sauker Head lies 3 miles to the eastward of Cape Chapeaurouge; it is a pretty high round point, off which lie some sunken rocks, about a cable's length from the shore. Garden Bank This bank [Garden Bank], whereon is from 7 to 17 fathoms water, lies about half a mile off from Little St. Laurence, with Blue Beach Point on with the East point of Great St. Laurence. Ferryland-Head Ferryland-Head lies S.W. 1 mile from Cape Chapeaurouge; it is a high rocky island, just separated from the main: It and Cape Chapeaurouge are sufficient marks to know the harbours of St. Laurence.
|
| Week Days |
Month Day |
Winds | Weather | Remarks | Notes |
| Monday | 3rd | SW | The first part moderate and hazy weather with rain. The later strong gales and squally. | PM Employed overhauling the rigging. AM Sent ashore all the empty beer casks. Employed brewing and watering. Began surveying the harbour of St. Lawrence. Dried sails. |
Cook immediately began the survey around Great St. Lawrence Harbour. Palliser had instructed him to cover this region after receiving reports of renewed activity by the French. The French had retained the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon off the end of the Burin Peninsula and Palliser wished to maintain a strong British presence. |
| Tuesday | 4th | SW S |
The first part strong gales and squally. Later light breezes with hard rain. | PM Employed as before. AM Weighed the small anchor and moored again. |
Cook surveying the coast from Burin round into Fortune Bay and Bay d'Espoir was an intergral part of Palliser's policy |
| Wednesday | 5th | ditto | The first part moderate breezes and hazy. Later fair weather. | Employed on the survey and sounding the harbour. Some of the people employed brewing and watering. | The Burin Peninsula is about 150 km long and on average 25 km wide, extending out to separate Placentia and Fortune Bays. |
| Thursday | 6th | SSW | Strong breezes and fair weather. | Employed as before. Dried sails. | |
| Friday | 7th | ditto | The first part strong gales. Later moderate and fair. | Employed as before. | |
| Saturday | 10th | WSW | The first part fresh gales with rain. Later thick weather. | Completed our water. Employed on the survey. | |
| Sunday | 9th | SW | The first part fair weather. Later hazy. | PM Employed wooding. | |
| Monday | 10th | S | Thick hazy weather this 24 hours. | PM Sent the boat for a load of wood. | |
| Tuesday | 11th | SE | The first part hazy weather. Later fair. | SE AM Dried sails. | |
| Wednesday | 12th | SE E N |
Fresh breezes and fair weather. | AM The cutter with the Master and pilot left the vessel to continue the survey along the coast. | Cook tried to use local people as pilots to guide him, to warn of rocks and currents, and to provide existing local names for features. He took John Beck on board as pilot at Great St. Lawrence. |
| Thursday | 13th | NE S |
The first part fresh breezes and fair. Later thick hazy weather. | PM Clapped two fathoms of platting on the best
bower cable. AM Hoisted the sheet anchor out of the hold and veered to half a cable on the best bower. |
To clap is to put or stick things together. Platting (or plaiting) is the result of braiding or intertwining material so as to form a plait or rope. |
| Friday | 14th | ditto variable |
Thick hazy weather with rain. | At 2 PM Anchored here the Guernsey, Commodore Palliser, and Egmont snow. The Niger saluted the Commodore, which was returned. | HMS Egmont was a 100 ton schooner, bought by the Navy in 1765. It was named after the Earl of Egmont, First Lord of the Admiralty at the time. |
| Saturday | 15th | WSW | The first part thick hazy weather. The later more clear. | Employed about the rigging. | |
| Sunday | 16th | ditto | Fresh breezes and fair weather. | At 3 PM the cutter returned. At 6 AM began to unmoor. At 11 came to sail. |
Cook left Great St. Lawrence and moved west along the coast. |
| Monday | 17th | WSW SW by W |
(1) Fresh breezes and fair weather. (8) Ditto weather. (12) Light airs inclinable to calm. |
(6) Spoke an English ship from Cork for
Quebec. (8) Cape Chaparorouge N by E 3 leagues. (9) Wore and brought to. Lawn Island NW by W ¼ of a mile. (10) Made sail. (12) Lawn Island NW½N, Little Lawn Point NE by N, distance 1½ mile. Sounded 46 fathoms.
(7) half past anchored in Lawn Bay in 42 fathoms. Veered away to a
whole cable and moored with the small anchor. |
Lawn Bay (46° 54'N, 55° 34'W) is a wide bay on
the south side of the Burin Peninsula 12 km west of St. Lawrence. It lies
across the front of 3 smaller harbours. Little Lawn Point is located on the
bay's eastern side while the Lawn Islands lie at its western limit. The name
Lawn is a corruption of l'ane, the French for xxxxx. A block is a pulley or system of pulleys mounted in a case, used to increase the mechanical power of the ropes running through them. Employed especially for the rigging of ships, and in lifting great weights. A cheek-block is a block of which one side is formed by a cheek-piece fastened to an object object which forms the other side. A staysail haulyard (halyard, halliard) is a rope or tackle used for raising or lowering the staysail. |
| Sailing Directions | Notes |
| Bay of Laun West 5 miles from Ferryland-Head, lies the Bay of Laun, in the bottom of which are two small inlets, called Great and Little Laun. Little Laun, which is the easternmost, lies open to the S.W. winds, which generally prevail upon this coast; and therefore no place to anchor in. Great Laun lies in about N. by E. 2 miles, is near half a mile wide, whereon is from 14 to 3 fathoms water. To sail into it, you must be careful to avoid a sunken rock, which lies about a quarter of a mile off from the East point. The best place to anchor is on the East side, about half a mile from the head, in 6 and 5 fathoms; the bottom is pretty good, and you are sheltered from all winds, except S. and S. by W. which blow right in and cause a great swell. At the head of this place is a bar harbour, into which boats can go at half tide; with conveniences for a fishery, and plenty of wood and water. Laun Islands Off the West point of Laun Bay lay the islands of the same name, not far from the shore; the westernmost and outermost of which lie W. Southerly 10 miles from Ferryland-Head; near a quarter of a mile to the southward of this island is a rock whereon the sea breaks in very bad weather: There are other sunken rocks about these islands, but they are no ways dangerous, being very near the shore. |
| Week Days |
Month Day |
Winds | Weather | Remarks | Notes |
| Tuesday | 18th | S | The first part fresh gales with hard rain. Later moderate. | At 6 PM let go the best bower anchor and veered
upon the hawser. AM Hove up the best bower anchor. |
|
| Wednesday | 19th | S W |
The first part fresh breezes and fair. Later hard rain. | Employed on the survey. | |
| Thursday | 20th | E | Moderate breezes and fair weather. | Employed on the survey. | |
| Friday | 21st | E S |
The first part fresh gales and hazy with rain. Later more moderate and fair. | Employed as before and brewing and wooding. | |
| Saturday | 22nd | variable | Moderate breezes and fair weather. | Employed as before. PM Rigged the foretopmast. | |
| Sunday | 23rd | ditto SSE |
The first and middle parts fair weather. The later fresh breezes and hazy with rain. | At 4 AM bent the foretopsail and began to unmoor. At 9 came to sail. At noon the outermost of the Lawn Islands WNW I mile. | The Grenville left Lawn Bay and continued to the west. |
| Monday | 24th | SSE SW S |
The first part strong gales and hazy with rain. The later more moderate and clear. | At 3 PM anchored with the small bower in 4½ fathoms water within the Lamaline Islands and veered to two thirds of a cable. AM Employed stowing and putting the hold in order. | A new log book starts at this point. The Lamaline Islands (46° 51'N, 55° 49'W) are a small group of islands near the end of the Burin Peninsula, off its south coast. |
| Sailing Directions | Notes |
| Taylor's Bay This bay [Taylor's Bay], which lies open to the sea, lies 3 miles to the westward of Laun Islands. Off the East point are some sunken rocks, near a quarter of a mile from the shore. Point aux Gaul A little to the westward of Taylor's Bay, there stretches out a low point of land called Point aux Gaul; off which lies a rock above water, half a mile from the shore, called Gaul Shag Rock; this rock lies West three quarters South, 5 leagues from Ferryland-Head; you have 14 fathoms close to the off side of it, but between it and the point are some sunken rocks. Lamelin Bay From Point aux Gaul Shag Rock, to the islands of Lamelin, is West three quarters N. 1 league; between them is the Bay of Lamelin, wherein is very shallow water, and several small islands and rocks, both above and under water, and in the bottom of it is a salmon river. Lamelin Islands The two islands of Lamelin (which are but low) lie off the West point of the bay of the same name, and lie West three quarters South, 6 leagues from the Mountain of the Red Hat; but in steering along shore make a W. by S. course good, will carry you clear of all danger. Small vessels may anchor in the road between these islands in 4 and 5 fathoms, tolerably well sheltered from the weather; Nearly in the middle of the passage, going in between the two islands is a sunken rock, which you avoid by keeping nearer to one side than the other; the most room is on the East-side. The easternmost islands communicates with the main at low-water, by a narrow beach, over which boats can go at high-water, into the N.W. arm of Lamelin Bay, where they lay in safety. Here are conveniences for a fishery, but little or no wood of any sort. Near to the South point of the westernmost island is a rock pretty high above water, called Lamelin Shag Rock; in going into the road between the islands, you leave this rock on you larboard side. Lamelin Ledges These ledges [LamelinLedges] lay along the shore, between Lamelin Islands and Point May, which is 3 leagues, and are very dangerous, some of them being 3 miles from the land. To avoid these ledges in the day-time, you must not bring the Islands of Lamelin to the southward of East, until Point May or the western extremity of the land bear N. by E. from you; you may then steer to the northward with safety, between Point May and Green Island. In the night, or foggy weather, you ought to be very careful not to approach these ledges within 30 fathoms water, lest you get entangled amongst them. Between them and the main are various soundings, from 16 to 5 fathoms. Observations All the land about Cape Chapeaurouge and Laun, is high and hilly close to the sea; from Laun Islands to Lamelin it is of moderate height; from Lamelin to Point May, the land near the shore is very low, with sandy beaches, but a little way inland are mountains. The next section on St.-Pierre and Miquelon is also reproduced with the information describing Cook's survey of 1763. |
| Week Days |
Month Day |
Winds | Weather | Remarks | Notes |
| Tuesday | 25th | S | The first part fresh gales and clear weather. The later hard rain. | PM Employed on the survey. AM Hove up the anchor. Dropped further in and moored with the small anchor and hawser. |
|
| Wednesday | 26th | ditto SE |
The first part fresh gales and hard rain. The later little wind and hazy. | AM Employed on the survey and overhauling the rigging. | |
| Thursday | 27th | NNE NE WSW |
The first part moderate breezes with rain. The middle fresh gales with thunder and lightning. The later strong gales and hard squalls with rain. | AM Employed as before. At 3 the hawser parted. | |
| Friday | 28th | ditto SE |
The first part fresh gales and fair weather. The later thick fog. | Employed about the rigging and blacking the
yards and mastheads. AM Took up the small anchor and moored with the bowers. |
|
| Saturday | 29th | NE E NE |
The first part light breezes and a thick fog. The middle strong gales with hard rain. The later clear weather. | At 9 AM a snow in the offing hoisted English colours which we answered. | |
| Sunday | 30th Jun. | NE | The first part moderate breezes and fair weather. The later hard rain. | PM Employed as before. |
| Week Days |
Month Day |
Winds | Weather | Remarks | Notes |
| Monday | 1st Jul. | SE | The first part moderate breezes with rain. The later fair weather. | Employed as before. | |
| Tuesday | 2nd | ditto | Moderate breezes and fair weather. | Employed as before. | |
| Wednesday | 3rd | ditto | Moderate breezes with thick fog and rain. | ||
| Thursday | 4th | SW | Ditto weather with rain. | PM Bent the sails. | |
| Friday | 5th | SW W |
(1) Moderate breezes and a thick fog. (4) Ditto weather. (8) Ditto weather. (12) Ditto weather.
(8) Fog. |
(5) Began to unmoor. (9) Weighed and came to sail. |
Cook and the Grenville were rounding the end of the Burin Peninsula. The French islands of St.-Pierre and Miquelon lay 20 km to the west. |
| Saturday | 6th | W WSW NW by N calm SSW |
(1) Little wind, at intervals thick fog. (4) Ditto weahter. (8) Light breezes with a thick fog. (12) Thick fog. (6) Moderate. |
(4) Green Island west 4 miles. (7) Reefed the topsails and mainsail. (8) Brought to. (10) 67 fathoms. (11) 70 ditto. (12) 78 ditto. (1) 78 ditto. |
Green Island (46° 52'N, 56° 06'W) is a
small isolated island situated between the Burin Peninsula and the French
island of St.-Pierre. Dantzic Point (46° 59'N, 55° 58'W) is the northerly of several points making up the west end of the Burin Peninsula. Cook was now entering Fortune Bay and would follow its southern shore to the Bay's head at Grand le Pierre. |
| Sailing Directions | Notes |
| Green Island This island [Green Island] which is about three quarters of a mile in circuit, and low, lies N.E. 5 miles from St. Peter's, and nearly in the middle of the channel, between it and Point May on Newfoundland; on the South-side of the island are some rocks both above and under water, extending themselves 1 mile and a quarter to the S.W. Point May Point May is the Southern extremity of Fortune Bay, and the SW. extremity of this part of Newfoundland; it may be known by a great black rock, nearly joining to the pitch of the point, and something higher than the land, which makes it look like a black hummock on the point; near a quarter of a mile right off from the point, or this round black rock, are three sunken rocks, whereon the sea always breaks. Dantzick Coves Near 2 miles from Point May, is Little Dantzick Cove, and half a league from Little Dantzick is Great Dantzick Cove; these coves are no places of safety, being open to the Westerly winds; the land about them is of a moderate height, bold to and clear of wood. Fortune From Dantzick Point (which is the north point of the coves) to Fortune the course is N.E. near 3 leagues; the land between them near the shore is of a moderate height, and bold to; you will have in most places 10 and 12 fathoms two cables length from the shore, 30 and 40 one mile off, and 70 and 80 two miles off. Fortune lies North from the East-end of Brunet; it is a bar place that will admit fishing boats at a quarter flood; and a fishing village in the bottom of a small bay, wherein is anchorage for shipping in 6, 8, 10, and 12 fathoms; the ground is none of the best, and you lay open to near half the compass. Fortune Bay Fortune Bay is very large; the entrance is formed by Point May and Pass Island, which are 12 leagues N. by E. and S. by W. from each other, and it is about 23 leagues deep, wherein are a great many bays, harbours and islands. |
| Week Days |
Month Day |
Winds | Weather | Remarks | Notes |
| Sunday | 7th | WNW SW |
Moderate breezes and fair weather. | At 4 PM anchored in Fortune Road in 6 fathoms water and moored with the bowers. | Fortune (47° 05'N, 55° 50'W) is a small
community on the north shore of the Burin Peninsula, 20 km east of Dantzic
Point. A small cove affored Cook an anchorage. A road is xx |
| Monday | 8th | variable | Ditto weather. | AM Employed on the survey and tarring the rigging. Rigged the spreet sail yard. | Sprit sail yard |
| Tuesday | 9th | W | Ditto weather. | Employed as before. AM Scraped the masts. |
|
| Wednesday | 10th | W by N SW calm |
The first and middle parts fair weather. The later some rain. | At 4 AM began to unmoor. At 8 weighed and came to sail. At noon the Cape of Grand Bank SSW about 1 mile distance. | Grand Bank Head (47° 07'N, 55° 47'W) |
| Thursday | 11th | W by N calm SW W |
The first part moderate breezes and fair weather. The later hard rain. | At ½ 1 PM anchored with the best bower in 7
fathoms water in a small cove, a little to the westward of Grand Bank. Sent
ashore all the empty beer casks. Began getting water on board. Moored with
small anchor and hawser. AM Employed brewing and watering. |
Admiral Cove (47° 07'N, 55° 46'W) Grand Bank (47° 07'N, 55° 45'W) |
| Friday | 12th | S SW WSW |
The first part moderate breezes, sometimes rain. The later fresh gales and fair weather. | Employed as before. At 8 AM took up the small anchor and double reefed the topsails. Got the beer and water on board. | |
| Saturday | 13th | WSW | The first part fresh gales and fair weather. The middle and later little wind and hazy. | At 3 PM weighed and came to sail. Sent the
cutter in shore to sound. At 8 anchored off the point of Grand Beach in
7 fathoms water. At 8 AM weighed. Employed sounding the coast and the cutter inshore as before. |
Grand Beach (47° 09'N, 55° 31'W) |
| Sunday | 14th | WSW WNW NW |
The first part fresh breezes and hazy. The middle hard gales and squally with rain. The later strong gales and clear. | At 3 PM anchored with the best bower in 5
fathoms water in a bay by Great Garnish and moored with the small anchor. At
8 PM took two men on board that had been lost in the woods for near a month.
They came from Burin intending to go to St. Lawrence and were almost
perishing for want of subsistance. At 2 AM lowered down the foreyard and veered on the best bower. |
Garnish (47° 15'N, 55° 22'W) Frenchman's Cove (47° 13'N, 55° 24'W) Burin (47° 02'N, 55° 10'W) |
| Monday | 15th | WNW | Moderate breezes and fair weather. | PM swayed the fore yard up. At 4 AM began to unmoor. At 6 weighed and came to sail. And sounded the coast along as usual. |
|
| Tuesday | 16th | WNW | Fresh breezes and fair weather. | At 7PM anchored with the best bower in a bight called Jack Fountain, in 10 fathoms water and moored with the small anchor and hawser. At noon weighed and came to sail. | Jacques Fontaine Cove (47° 32'N, 54° 56'W) |
| Wednesday | 17th | WNW SE WSW |
The first part strong gales. The later fair weather. | At 4 PM anchored with the best bower in 4½
fathoms water in a bay called Grand le Pierre, about one mile and a half
from the head of Fortune Bay. And moored with the small anchor. AM Employed on the survey. |
Grand le Pierre Harbour (47° 40'N, 54° 47'W) Fortune Bay (46° 53'N, 55° 22'W) |
| Thursday | 18th | ditto | The first part fair weather. The later hard gales. | Employed as before. AM Tarred the sides and began to brew. |
|
| Friday | 19th | ditto | The first part strong gales and hazy with rain. The later fair weather. | PM Employed brewing and cutting wood. AM Got the wood and beer on board. At 9 weighed and came to sail. At noon Cape Mille WSW 4 miles. |
Cape Mille (47° 36'N, 54° 52'W) |
| Saturday | 20th | W W by S |
The first part moderate breezes and fair weather. The later hazy. | At 6 PM anchored with the small bower anchor in
12 fathoms water in the Bay de Largent. Moored with small anchor. At 5 AM took up the small anchor. At 8 weighed and came to sail. Lying by for the boats. |
Bay l'Argent (47° 33'N, 54° 53'W) |
| Sunday | 21st | WSW | The first part moderate breezes, sometimes foggy. The middle and later thick fog with rain. | At 8 PM anchored with the small bower in 12 fathoms in C---t Harbour and moored with the small anchor. | Cook's chart records the name as Harbour le Contte. However, its present name is Femme Harbour (47° 36'N, 54° 59'W). It is located on the north shore of Fortune Bay. |
| Monday | 22nd | W NE |
The first part moderate breezes with rain. The later fair weather. | At 5 AM began to unmoor. At 6 weighed and came to sail. At 11 turning into Long Harbour ran ashore upon a rock. Struck the yards and topmasts. | Long Harbour (47° 36'N, 55° 06'W) |
| Tuesday | 23rd | NE calm WSW |
Fair weather. | PM Employed shoaring the vessel with the yards,
etc. And starting water and heaving ballast out. Got all the anchors from
the bows and payed the cables out overboard. At midnight the water flowing
got her off. AM Employed getting the cables and anchors on board and transporting the vessel. Cut 10 fathoms off the small bower cable, it being much rubbed in heaving off. |
|
| Wednesday | 24th | W | Ditto weather. | At 1 PM anchored with the small bower in 50
fathoms water. At 4 warped into a little cove where we moored with the small
anchor. AM Employed fetching the casks and cables on board. And clearing the hold in order to square the ballast. Got up topmasts and yards. |
Anderson's Cove (Morgan's Cove) (47° 36'N, 55° 07'W) |
| Thursday | 25th | ditto | Ditto weather. | Employed as before. AM The cutter employed on the survey. Employed stowing the hold and watering. Began to brew |
|
| Friday | 26th | WNW | Fair weather. | PM Employed as before and brewing. AM Completed watering, etc. |
|
| Saturday | 27th | W NNE calm WSW |
The first and later parts fair weather. The middle hard rain. | Cleaned between decks and set up the topmast
shrouds. At 6 AM took up the small anchor and warped out of the cove and came to sail. At noon the entrance of Long Harbour NNE one mile off. |
|
| Sunday | 28th | WSW S SE SSW |
The first part moderate breezes and fair weather. The middle calm. The later fresh breezes. | At 8 PM anchored with the small bower in an
inlet on the west side of the Bay of Mall. AM Employed on the survey. |
Mal Bay (47° 36'N, 55° 07'W) Rencontre Harbour (47° 38'N, 55° 13'W) |
| Monday | 29th | NE SW |
Fresh breezes with rain. | Employed on the survey. At 8 AM weighed and came to sail. | |
| Tuesday | 30th | ditto variable calm |
The first part light breezes and fair. The later thick fog. | At 9 PM anchored in Bell Harbour with the small bower in 12 fathoms water. Carried the snall anchor with the hawser ashore upon the rocks. | Belle Harbour (47° 40'N, 55° 20'W) |
| Wednesday | 31st Jul. | SW | The first part thick fog. The later fair weather. | AM Employed on the survey. |
The following Sailing Directions cover the French Islands of St.-Pierre and Miquelon, which formed part of the Sailing Directions Cook produced for the south coast. They have also been reproduced on the pages that cover Cook's work in 1763 when he charted these islands.
| Sailing Directions | Notes |
|
Island of St. Peter's The Island of St. Peter's lies in the latitude 46 degrees 46 minutes North-West by South, near 12 leagues from Cape Chapeaurouge, and West by South half South 5 leagues from the Islands of Lamelin; it is about 5 leagues in circuit, and pretty high, with a craggy, broken, uneven surface. Coming from the Westward, as soon as you raise Gallantry-Head, which is the South point of the Island, it will make in a round hummock, like a small island, and appears as if separated from St. Peter's. On the East-side of the island, a little to the N.E. of Gallantry-Head lay three small islands, the innermost of which is the largest, called Dog Island; within this island is the road and harbour of St. Peter's; the harbour is but small, and has in it from 12 to 20 feet water; but there is a bar across the entrance, whereon there is but 6 feet at low-water, and 12 or 14 feet at high-water. The road which lies on the N.W. side of Dog-Island will admit ships of any burthen, but it is only fit for the summer season, being open to the N.E. winds; you may lay in 8, 10, and 12 fathoms, and for the most part is a hard rocky bottom; there is very little clear ground; ships of war commonly buoy their cables; the best ground is near the North shore. Going in or out you must not range too near the East-side of Boar Island, which is the easternmost of the three islands above-mentioned, for fear of some sunken rocks which lie East about 1 mile from it, and which the only danger about St. Peter's, but what lay very near the shore. Island of Columbo This Island is of a small circuit, but pretty high, and lies very near the N.E. point of St. Peter's; between them is a very good passage, one third of a mile wide, wherein is 12 fathoms water. On the North-side of the island is a rock pretty high above water, called Little Columbo; and about a quarter of a mile N.E. from this rock is a sunken rock, whereon is 2 fathoms water. Island of Langley The Island of Langley, which lies on the N.W. side of St. Peter's, is about 8 leagues in circuit, of a moderate and pretty equal height, except the N. end, which is a low point, with sand hills along it: it is flat a little way off the low land on both sides of it; but all the high part of the island is very bold to, and the passage between it and St. Peter's (which is one league broad) is clear of danger. You may anchor on the N.E. side of the island, a little to the southward of the sand hills, in 5 and 6 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom, sheltered from the Southerly S.W. and N.W. winds. Island of Miquelon From the North point of Langley, to the South point of Miquelon is about 1 mile; it is said that a few years since they joined together at this place by a neck of sand, which the sea has washed away and made a channel, wherein is 2 fathoms water. The Island of Miquelon is 4 leagues in length from North to South, but of an unequal breadth; the middle of the island is high land, called the high land of Dunn; but down by the shore it is low, except Cape Miquelon, which is a lofty promontory at the northern extremity of the island. Dunn Harbour On the S.E. side of the island, to the southward of the high land, is a pretty large bar harbour, called Dunn Harbour, which will admit fishing shallops at half flood, but can never be of any utility for a fishery. Miquelon Rocks and Bank Miquelon Rock stretches off from the East point of the island, under the high land, 1 mile and a quarter to the Eastward, some are above and some under water; the outermost of these Rocks are above water, and you have 12 fathoms close to them, and 18 and 20 fathoms 1 mile off. N.E. half N. 4 or 5 miles from these rocks lies Miquelon Bank, whereon is 6 fathoms water. Road of Miquelon The Road of Miquelon (which is large and spacious) lies at the North-end, and on the East-side of the island, between Cape Miquelon and a very remarkable round mountain near the shore, called Chapeau: Off the South point of the road are some sunken rocks, about a quarter of a mile from the shore, but every where else it is clear of danger. The best anchorage is near the bottom of the road in 6 or 7 fathoms, fine sandy bottom; you lay open to the Easterly winds, which winds seldom blow in the summer. Cape Miquelon Cape Miquelon, or the northern extremity of the island is high bluff land; and when you are 4 or 5 leagues to the eastward or westward of it, you would take it for an island, by reason the land at the bottom of the road is very low. Seal Rocks The Seal Rocks are two rocks above water, lying 1 league and a half off from the middle of the West-side of the Island Miquelon; the passage between them and the islands is very safe, and you have 14 or 15 fathoms within a cable's length all round them. |