Cook in Newfoundland.

1767. Part 2: July to November.

Introduction.

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Please click here for 1767 Part 1: March to June.

 

Sailing directions

To be interfiled.  
Sailing Directions Notes
Cape Anguille

Cape Anguille lies 6 leagues to the northward of Cape Ray, N.E. by N. 17 leagues, from the island of St. Paul, and is in the latitude of 47° 55?North, it is high land cover'd with wood; 2 miles to the southward of this cape lies the small island and harbour of Cod-Roy before described.

Bay and Harbour of St. George

From Cape Anguille to Cape St. George, the course is N.¾E. distant 11 leagues; these two capes form the Bay of St. George, which lies in N.E. 18 leagues from the former, and east 15 from the latter; at the head of this bay, on the south-side round a low point of land, is a very good harbour, wherein is good anchorage in 8, 10, or 12 fathom water. In several parts about this harbour are convenient places for fishing works, with large beaches, and good fishing ground in the bay, which early in the Spring abound with fish, and formerly was much frequented; a very considerable river empties itself into the head of the bay, but it is not navigable for any thing but boats, by reason of a bar a-cross the entrance, which lies exposed to the westerly winds. On the north-side of this bay, before the isthmus of Port-a-Port, is good anchorage in 7 or 8 fathom water, with Northerly winds; from off this place stretches out a fishing bank two-thirds a-cross the bay, whereon is from 7 to 18 fathom water, a dark sand bottom.

Cape St. George and Red Island

Cape St. George lies in the latitude of 48d. 28m. it may easily be known, not only by its being the N. point of the bay of the same name, but by the steep cliffs on the north part of it, which rises perpendicular from the sea to a considerable hight, and by Red Island which lies 5 miles to the northward of the cape, and half a mile from the shore: This island is about one league in circuit, and tolerable high, and the steep cliffs round it are of a redish colour. Under the N.E. end of the island, and before a sandy cove on the main, which lies just to the northward of the steep cliffs is anchorage in 12 or 14 fathom water, you are there covered from the S.W. winds by the island, and from the Southerly and Easterly winds by the main, but there is no riding here with Northerly and N.W. winds; this place formerly was much frequented by fishers.,p> Courses along shore between Red Island and Point Rich

From Red Island to Long Point, at the entrance into the Bay of Port-a-Port, the course is N. 52d East, distant 7 leagues and a half. From Red Island to Guernsey Island in the mouth of the Bay of Islands, the course is N.E.¾N. 15 leagues and a half. From Red Island to Cape St. Gregory, the course is N.E.¾N. 20 leagues. From Red Island to the Bay of Ingornachoix, the course is N.N.E.¾E. distant 48 leagues; and from Red Island to Point Rich, the course is N. 29d East, distant 48 leagues and 2 miles.

Bay of Port-a-Port

The land between Red Island, and the entrance into Port-a-Port, is of a moderate height, or rather low, with sandy beaches, except one remarkable high hillock (called Round-head,) close to the shore, and is 2 leagues to the N.E. of Red Island; but up in the country over Port-a-Port, are high lands, and if you are 4 leagues at sea, you will not discern the Long Point of land, which forms the Bay of Port-a-Port: This bay is capacious, being near 5 miles broad at the entrance, and lies into the southward 4 leagues, with good anchorage in most parts of it. The West point of the bay (called Long Point,) is a low rocky point, from which stretches out a reef of rocks N.E. near 1 mile; S.E. by S. 4 miles from Long Point, and half a league from the east shore, lies Fox Island, which is small, but tolerable high, from the North end of this island stretches out a shoal near 2 miles to the northward, called Foxes Tail; nearly in the middle of the bay, between the island and the West-shore, lies the Middle Ground, on one place of which near the S.W. end is not above 3 or 4 feet water, at low-water; at the head of the bay is a low point, called Middle Point, it stretching out into the middle of the bay; from off this point is a shoal spit, which extends near 2 miles to the northward, part of which drys at low-water: From the head of the East Bay over to the Bay of St. George, is little more than a quarter of a mile, this isthmus is very low with a pond in the middle of it, into which the sea washes in gales of winds from the southward at high tides. On the East-side of the isthmus is a tolerable high mountain, which appears flat at top, and rises directly from the isthmus, on the North-side of this mountain; and about 5 miles from the isthmus is a conspicuous valley or hollow, which together with Fox Island, serves as a leading mark for coming in and out of this bay as is hereafter described: Two leagues to the N.E from the entrance of this bay, and half a league from the shore lies Shag Island, which appears at a distance like a high rock, and is east to be distinguished from the main; West 1 league from the Shag Island, lies the middle of Long Ledge; which is a narrow ledge of rocks stretching N.E. and S.W. 4 miles, the N.E. part of them are above water; the channel into the Bay of Port-a-Port, between the S.W. end of this ledge, and the reef off the west point of the bay is 1 league wide. To sail into Port-a-Port, coming from the S.W. come not nearer the pitch of the Long Point of the bay, then 1 mile and a half, or haul not in for the bay, until you have brought the valley in the side of the mountain before mentioned, (which is on the East-side of the isthmus) over the East-end of Fox Island, or to the eastward of it, which will then bear S.S.E.½E. you will then be clear of the Long Point Reef, and may haul into the bay with safety; coming from the N.E. and without the Long Ledge, or turning into the bay in order to keep clear of the S.W. point of the Long Ledge, bring the isthmus or the foot of the mountain, (which is on the East-side of the isthmus) open to the westward of Fox Island, near twice the breadth of the island, (the island will then bear S. ½E.) you may haul into the bay with this mark, and when Shag Island is brought on with the foot of the high land, which is on the South-side of Coal River, and will then bear E. by N.½N. you will be within the Long Ledge; there is a safe passage into the bay, between the Long Ledge and the main, passing on either side of Shag Island, taking care to avoid a small round shoal which lies S.W. 1 mile from the island, on which is 2 fathom and a half water. To sail up to what is called the West Bay, and into Head Harbour (which are the safest anchorages, and the best places to wood and water at) keep the West-shore on board, and in turning between it and the Middle Ground, observe on standing over to the middle to put about as soon as you shoalden your water to 8 fathom, you may stand to the spit of the Middle Point, to 6 or 5 fathom. To sail up to what is called the East Road, which lies between Fox Island and the East-shore; observe about 1 league N.E. from the island is a high Bluff Head, being the south part of the high land that rises steep directly from the shore, keep this head bearing to the southward of East until the isthmus is brought to the eastward of Fox Island, which will then bear S.S.W. you will then be within the shoal, (called Fox's Tail) and may then haul to the southward, and then anchor any where between the island and the main: To sail up to the East Bay passing between the island and the East-shore, observe the foregoing directions; and after you are above the island, come not nearer the main than half a mile until you are abreast of a bluff point above the island called Road Point, just above which in 12 fathom is the best anchorage with N.E. winds; and to sail up to this anchorage between the Middle Ground and the Fox's Tail, bring the said point on with S.W. point of the island, this mark will lead you up in the fair way between the two shoals. What is called the West Road, lies before a high stone beach, about 2 miles within Long Point, where you ride secure with Westerly and N.W. winds in 10 or 12 fathom water, the said beach is steep too, and is an excellent place for landing and drying of fish, for which it has been formerly used; there is likewise a good place at the North-end of Fox Island for the same purpose; and the whole bay and adjacent coast abound with cod, and extensive fishing banks lays along the sea coast.

Bay of Islands

From the Long Point, at the entrance of Port-a-Port to the Bay of Island, the direct course is N. 35d. East distant 8 leagues, but coming out of Port-a-Port, you must first steer North for one league or a league and a half, in order to clear the Long Ledge, then N.E. by N. or N.E.; the land between them is of considerable height rising in craggy barren hills directly from the shore. The Bay of Islands may be known by the many islands in the mouth of it, particularly the three named Guernsey Island, Tweed Island, and Pearl Island, which are nearly of equal height with the lands on the main; if you are bound for York or Lark Harbours which lay on the S.W. side of this bay, and coming from the southward, steer in between Guernsey Island and the South Head, either of which you may approach as near as you please; but with S.S.W. and Southerly winds, come not near the South Head for fear of calm and gusts of wind under the high land, where you cannot anchor with safety; you may sail in or out of the bay by several other channels formed by different islands, there being no danger but what shews itself, except a small ledge of rocks which lies half a mile from the North Shag Rock, and in a line with the two Shag Rocks in one, if you bring the South Shag Rock open on either side of the North Rock you will be clear either to the eastward or westward of the ledge. The safest passage into this bay from the northward is between the two Shag Rocks, and then between Tweed Island and Pearl Island. From Guernsey Island to Tortoise Head (which is the North point of York Harbour, and the S.E. point of Lark Harbour,) the course is S. by E. 5 miles;

Lark Harbour

Lark Harbour lies in S.W. near 2 miles, and is one third of a mile broad in the narrowest part which is at the entrance. To sail into it with large ships keep the larboard shore on board, but with small vessels there is no danger, you may anchor with a low point on the starboard-side bearing West, N.W. or North, and ride secure from all winds.

York Harbour

From Tortoise Head into York Harbour the course is S.W. near 1 league; between the said head and Governor's Island which lies before the harbour is good room to turn, and anchorage all the way, but regard must be had to a shoal which spits off from a low beach point (called Sword Point) on the West-end of Governor's Island; to avoid which keep a good part of Seal Island open to the northward of Governor's Island until you are above this point, in turning up the harbour, stand not nearer the next point on the island (off which it is flat) then to bring Tortoise Head touching Sword Point, the best anchorages is to keep Tortoise Head open of the said point and anchor in 10 fathom along the sandy beach on the main; farther up within the island is too deep water for anchoring all the way through the passage within the island. This harbour is very convenient to wood and water at. W.S.W. and S.W. winds blows here sometimes with great violence, occasioned by the nature of the lands, there being a valley or low land between this harbour and Coal River which is bounded on each side with high hills, this causeth these winds to blow very strong over the low land.

Harbour Island

Harbour Island lies at the entrance of the River Humber and S.E. 7 miles from Guernsey Island, at the S.W. point of which is a small snug harbour (called Wood's Harbour) wherein is 5 and 4 fathom water, but the entrance is too narrow for strangers to attempt, and but 2 fathom deep.

River Humber

The River Humber at about 5 leagues within the entrance, it becomes narrow, and the stream is so rapid in places for about 4 leagues up to a lake, that it is with great difficulty a boat can be got up it; and at some times quite impracticable; this lake which stretches N.E.½N. is in length 7 or 8 leagues, and from 2 to 5 miles broad. The banks of this river, and the shores of the lake are well clothed with timber, such as are common in this country. This river is said to abound with salmon, in which has been formerly a very great salmon fishery.

North and South Arms

The North and South Arms are only long inlets, in which is very deep water, until you come to their heads.

Anchorages

A little within the entrance of the North Arm, on the starboard-side, is a small cove, wherein a vessel might anchor in 30 fathom water; 1 league within the entrance of the South Arm on the starboard-side is a sandy cove (being the second on that side) wherein is anchorage in 16 fathom water, and good place to wood and water at; haul into the cove until the West point of it is brought on with the North point of the entrance of this arm, and there anchor; if you miss laying hold of this anchoring ground, there is a very good harbour at the head of the S.E. branch of this arm; on the East-side of Eagle Island between the North and South Arms is anchorage in 8, 10, or 12 fathom water. Under the North-side of Harbour Island is good anchorage with S.W. winds; at a quarter of a mile from the island you will have muddy bottom. Opposite to the S.E. end of Harbour Island on the South-side of this bay is Frenchman's Cove, wherein is good anchorage in 20, 16, or 12 fathom water; it is very probable that none of these anchorages will ever be frequented by shipping; yet it is necessary to point them out, as it may happen that in coming into the bay with a gale of wind at S.W. it may blow so hard out of York Harbour that no vessel can carry sail to work into anchoring ground; at such times they will be glad to get to an anchor in any place of safety.

Bay of Islands

The Bay of Islands has been much frequented formerly for the cod fishery; the best place for fishing ships to erect stages, and keep boats, is in Small Harbour which lies a little without the South Head, and the large beach on Sword Point on Governor's Island, is an excellent place for drying of fish.

From Bay of Islands to Bonne Bay

From Guernsey Island to Bonne Bay, the course is first N.N.E. 6 leagues; then N.E. 3 leagues. The land near the shore from the North Shag Rock to Cape St. Gregory is low, along which lay sunken rocks, some of which are a quarter of a mile from the shore, but very little way in land, is riseth into a mountain terminating at top, in round hills; from Cape St. Gregory to Bonne Bay, the land riseth in hills, directly from the sea to a considerable height.

Cape St. Gregory

Cape St. Gregory is high, and the Northernmost land you can see when coasting along shore between Red Island and the Bay of Islands.

Bonne Bay

Bonne Bay may easily be known if you are not above 4 or 5 leagues off at sea by the lands about it, all the land on the S.W. side of the bay being very high and hilly, the land on the N.E. side, and from thence along the sea-coast to the northward is low and flat, but about 1 league up in land are a range of mountains which run parallel with the sea-coast; you cannot distinguish the low land if you are 6 or 7 leagues off at sea. Over the South-side of this bay is a very high mountain terminating at top in a remarkable round hill, which is very conspicuous when you are to the northward of the bay. This bay lies in S.E. 2 leagues, then branches into two arms, one tending to the southward and the other to the eastward, the best anchorage is in the Southern Arm; small vessels must anchor just above a low Woody Point (which is on the starboard-side of the bay at the entrance into this arm,) before a sandy beach in 8 or 10 fathom water, about a cable's length from the shore; but large ships must run higher up unless they moor to the shore, they cannot anchor in less than 30 or 40 fathom, but at the head of the arm where there is but 24 fathom; notwithstanding the great depth of water you lay everywhere in perfect security and very convenient to wood and water, there being great plenty of both. To sail into the East Arm keep the S.E. point or starboard shore on board; short round the point is a small snug cove wherein is good anchorage in 16 or 18 fathom water, and moor to the shore; a little within the North point of this arm is a very snug harbour for small vessels, wherein is 7 and 6 fathom water. In sailing in or out of this bay with S.W. winds come not near the weather shore for fear of being becalmed under the high land, or meeting with heavy gusts of wind which is still worse, and the depth of water is too great to anchor.

Bonne Bay to Point Riche

From Bonne Bay to Point Rich, the course along shore is N.N.E. distant 24 leagues; but in coming out of the bay you must first steer N.N.W. and N. by W. for the first 3 leagues in order to get an offing.

Martin Point, Broom Point and the Bay of St. Paul

10 miles to the northward of Bonne Bay is a pretty high white point (called Martin Point) 3 quarters of a mile right off from this point is a small ledge of rocks whereon the sea breaks: One league to the Northwest of Martin Point, is a low white rocky point (called Broom Point) half a mile S.W. from this point lies a sunken rock that seldom shews itself. On the N.E. side of Broom Point lies the Bay of St. Paul, wherein vessels may anchor with Southerly and Easterly winds, but lies quite exposed to the sea winds.

Cow Head and Stearing Island

One league to the northward of the Bay of St. Paul is a pretty high point of land (called Cow Head) it will have the appearance of an island being only joined to the main by a very low and narrow neck of land; three quarters of a mile off this head lies Stearing Island, which is low and rocky, and the only island on the coast between Bay of Islands and Point Rich. On the South-side of Cow Head is Cow Cove, wherein is shelter for vessels with Easterly and Northerly winds; and on the North-side of this head is Shallow Bay, wherein is water sufficient for small vessels, and good fishing conveniences; at the N.E. entrance into this bay are a clutter of rocky islands, which range themselves N.E. and S.W. and at the S.W. entrance are two rocks close to each other, which generally shew themselves, they lay a full cable's length from the shore; and there is a channel into the bay on either side of them. In sailing in or out of this bay, you may go on either side of Stearing Island which lies right before it, but come not too near the N.E. end, there being sunken rocks off that end. This place is the best situated for a fishery of any on the coast, there being excellent fishing ground about it.

Shallow Bay to Ingornachoix Bay

From Stearing Island to Point Rich the course is N. 20d. 45m. E. distance 17 leagues. From Shallow Bay to the South part of Ingornachoix Bay, is nearly a straight shore all the way, and neither creek or cove, where a vessel can shelter her self from the sea winds; there are some small sandy bays where vessels may anchor with the land winds; 6 leagues to the northward of Stearing Island, and about half a mile in land, is a remarkable hill (called Portland, it makes not unlike Portland in the English Channel,) and alters not its appearance from any point of view.

Hawke's Harbour and Port Saunders

Hawke's Harbour and Port Saunders are safe and commodious harbours situated in the Bay of Ingornachoix S.E. 2 leagues from Point Rich; at the entrance of these harbours lies an island (called Keppel Island) which is not easily to be distinguished by strangers from the main, the channel into Hawke's Harbour (which is the southernmost) lies between the island, and the South shore; on the starboard-shore entring into this harbour, and opposite to the West-end of the island, begins a shoal which stretches up along the shore 1 mile, the middle of which runs out into the harbour two thirds the breadth thereof, great part of this shoal dries at low-water. Your course into the harbour is East, keeping mid channel, or rather nearest to Keppel Island until the East-end thereof, which is a low stone beach) bears N. by E. or N. then steer S.E.½E. for a small island you will see up the harbour, keeping the N.E. or larboard shore pretty well on board, and steer for the said little island, as soon as you have brought the point at the South entrance of the harbour to bear W. by N.½N. and are the length of the S.E. point of a bay which is on the starboard-side of the harbour, you will then be above the shoal, and may anchor in 12 fathom water, or you may run within half a mile of the small island and there anchor, where you will lay convenienter to take in wood and water. To sail into Port Saunders, there is not the least danger, leave Keppel Island on your starboard-side and anchor as soon as you are half a mile within the entrance in 10 or 11 fathom water; but if you run up towards the head of this harbour keep the larboard shore on board in order to avoid a ledge of rocks which lies nearly in the middle of the harbour. This is the best harbour for ships to lay in that are bound to the southward, as the other is for those bound for the northward; all the lands near these harbours are in generally low and covered with wood. You may occasionally anchor without these harbours in the Bay of Ingornachoix, according as the winds are.

Point Rich

Point Rich lies in the latitude of 51d. 41m. 30sec. it is the S.W. point of a peninsula, which is almost surrounded by the sea, it is every where of a moderate and pretty equal height, and is the most remarkable point of land along the West-side of Newfoundland it projecting out into the sea farther than any other from whence the coast each way takes a different direction.

Port-aux-Choix

Two miles N.E. from Point Rich is the harbour of Port-aux-Choix, it is but small yet will admit of ships of large burthen, but they must moor head and stern, there not being room to moor otherwise. To sail into it keep the starboard shore on board, and anchor just above a small island which lies in the middle of the harbour. In this harbour, and in Boat Cove which lies a little to the northward are several stages and good places for drying of fish.

Old Port-aux-Choix

Round the N.E. point of the peninsula lies the harbour of Old Port-aux-Choix, which is a small but safe harbour, in the entrance of which lies a small island called Harbour Island, and between this island and the West point of the harbour, are rocks, some above and some under the water. To sail into this harbour on the West-side of the island, keep the island close on board; but to sail in on the East-side give the N.E. point of this island a small birth; you may anchor any where on the S.E. or larboard-side of the harbour, but come not near the N.W. or starboard-side, there being a shoal of sand and mud all along that side.

Point Rich to Point Ferolle

From Point Rich to the Twin Islands (which are low, and the outermost islands in the Bay of St. John) the course is N.N.E. distance 4 leagues, and from the Twin Islands to Point Ferolle the course is N.E.½N. 11 miles.

Bay St. John

The Bay of St. John lies between Point Rich and Point Ferolle; there are in it a great many islands and sunken rocks; the only island of any extent is that of St. John which lies N.E. 3 leagues from Point Rich; on the S.W. side of this island is a small harbour which seems not badly situated for the cod-fishery, and it hath good conveniences for that purpose, but it is not a good place for shipping , they would be too much exposed to the S.W. winds, which sends in a great sea. On the S.E. side of this island opposite to the West-end of Head Island, is a small bay wherein is anchorage in 16 or 14 fathom water, and sheltered from most winds, and is the only anchoring place in the whole bay.

Ferolle Ledge

From the South part of Point Ferolle stretches out a ledge of rocks S.S.W. near 1 league; and along the shore to the River of Castors (which is in the bottom of St. John's Bay) are sunken rocks 2 miles off.

Over the middle of the Bay of St. John is high table land, which is very steep on that side next the bay, and terminates that chain of mountains which runs parallel with the sea coast from Bonne Bay.

The course of the tides along this coast are greatly govern'd by the winds, but when not interrupted by strong gales of long continuance; a S.E. by S. or S.S.E. moon makes high-water, and flows up and down, or upon perpendicular 7 or 8 feet.

 

 

Remarks, etc on Board His Majesty's Brig, the Grenville, James Cook Master, between 03 March 1767 and 15 November 1767.

July 1767.

 
Week
Days
Month
Day
Winds Weather Remarks Notes
Wednesday 1st Jul. SW Major parts of these 24 hours fresh breezes with rain. Thunder and lightning.   Cook was presently anchored in the Bay of Islands and surveying the inlet.
Thursday 2nd W First and later parts moderate and fair. Middle squally with rain. Employed surveying and sounding.  
Friday 3rd WSW Fresh breezes and fair weather. Employed surveying and sounding the River Thames. The Middle Arm (previously called the River Thames and also called South Arm by Cook) (49° 08'N, 58° 05'W) runs a short distance east before dividing into two, Penguin Arm to the north and Goose Arm.
Saturday 4th S
SW
Moderate and fair weather. Employed as per last.  
Sunday 5th W Fresh breezes and fair weather.    
Monday 6th ESE
WNW
Moderate and fair weather. Employed surveying and sounding the entrance into the River Thames and about Eagle Island. Eagle Island (49° 10'N, 58° 08'W) lies off the end of Old Woman Head, between the entrances to North and Middle Arms.
Tuesday 7th ESE Moderate and fair weather. At 5 AM weighed and came to sail. Employed working out of the bay and surveying the North Head. North Head (49° 18'N, 58° 15'W) is situated north of the Bay of Islands under Mount St. Gregory.
Wednesday 8th W
SW
First and later light breezes. Middle fresh gales and hazy with rain. At 9 PM anchored in 21 fathoms water between the Shag Rocks and the Main. At 6 AM weighed and came to sail. Employed sounding and surveying the coast to the northward. The Shag Rocks (49° 16'N, 58° 19'W) lie between Gregory and Saddle Islands just south of North Head, near the northern approach to the Bay of Islands.
Thursday 9th SW Fresh breezes and fair. Employed as before. Cook had now begun surveying the coast north of the Bay of Islands.
Friday 10th W
SW
Fresh breezes and fair the first part. Later hazy. At 10 AM anchored on the west side of Good Bay in 7 fathoms water. Bonne Bay (Good Bay) (49° 35'N, 57° 58'W) is the next large inlet north of the Bay of Islands. It divides into two arms.
Saturday 11th variable Fresh breezes and fair weather. At 1 PM drove off the bank, hove up the anchor and worked higher up. Sent the boat to sound. At 8 PM anchored in 30 fathoms and moored with the hawser fast on shore. Cook's anchorage was just south of Woody Point (49° 30'N, 57° 45'W) at the entrance to the South Arm (the SW Harbour) (49° 28'N, 57° 44'W). This, the wetern arm runs largely north-south.
Sunday 12th SW Moderate and hazy. PM Employed sounding the SW Harbour.  
Monday 13th variable Little wind and hazy. Employed surveying and sounding the harbour.  
Tuesday 14th ditto Little wind and fair weather. Employed surveying the bay. AM Weighed and came to sail.  
Wednesday 15th ditto Light airs and clear. At 2 PM anchored in a small cove in 17 fathoms water at the south entrance into the SE Arm. Employed sounding and surveying this arm. The other branch of Bonne Bay, the East Arm (the SE Arm) (49° 30'N, 57° 50'W) runs northwest-southeast. A narrow strait, the Tickle, marks the entrance to the Arm and Cook anchored at Gadds Harbour (49° 31'N, 57° 53'W) on its southern shore.
Thursday 16th NW Little wind and fair. Employed as before.  
Friday 17th variable Fresh breezes and hazy all the later part.    
Saturday 18th ditto Fresh breezes and fair for the most part. Employed surveying and sounding the head [of] the arm.  
Sunday 19th ditto Moderate and fair weather.   Cook was ready to leave Bonne Bay.
Monday 20th ditto Moderate and fair weather. At 6 AM weighed and came to sail. Working out of the bay and Cook left the bay and resumed his survey up the coast surveying the coast to the northward.
Tuesday 21st SW by W Fresh gales and fair weather. Employed surveying and sounding the coast to the northward. At noon Green Point S20ºW 2 leagues. Green Point (49° 41'N, 57° 58'W) is a headland about 10 kilometeres north of Bonne Bay.
Wednesday 22nd SW Fore and middle parts moderate and fair. Later calm. Employed as per last. At noon Point of Rocks SW 1 league. Broom Point is probably Cook's Point of Rocks (49° 50'N, 57° 52'W). It lies three kilometres southwest of St. Pauls.
Thursday 23rd calm
SW by W
Fore and middle parts calm. Remainder fresh gales and hazy with rain. Employed as before.  
Friday 24th SW Strong gales with rain and thick fog. Employed plying to windward and sounding.  
Saturday 25th WSW Moderate and thick fog. At 9 AM saw the island bearing WSW. Stearin Island (49° 56'N, 57° 50'W) is a low rocky island, lying two kilometres off Cow Head.
Sunday 26th SW
WSW
The first and later fresh gales and foggy. 6 PM island SW, stood along shore.  
Monday 27th SW
SW by W
Moderate and foggy weather. At 2 PM clear saw the land. At 3 barrysway E by S ¾ mile. High land Portland S. About ¾ mile off shore. The barrasway was Portland Creek, the entrance to Portland Creek Pond. Just to the south is the 170 metre high Portland Hill (50° 08'N, 57° 38'W).
Tuesday 28th WSW
W by N
SW
Fresh gales and hazy. At 9 PM came to in Ingrenachoise in 10 fathoms water. Rocky Point [of] Island NNW½W. Found riding here a New England sloop. Ingornachoix Bay (50° 40'N, 57°22'W) is a wide bay lying to the south of the prominent Pointe Riche (50° 42'N, 57° 24'W). Cook has mistakenly called that point a part of an an island.
Wednesday 29th WSW
NNW
Fresh gales and hazy with rain for the most part of these 24 hours. Employed on the survey. At 5 AM weighed and run farther up. At 7 brought to in 10 fathoms water and moored with a hawser fast on shore. Two inlets lie to the east of Ingornachoix Bay, their entrances marked by Keppel Island (50° 38'N, 57° 20'W). Cook originally anchored off the western end of this island. Keppel Island and Keppel Harbour behind it were named after Augustine Keppel, a naval officer. The inlet to the north of Keppel Island was named Port Saunders after Sir Charles Saunders, who had commanded the British fleet at Quebec and who had transferred Cook to HMS Northumberland.
Thursday 30th NW
variable
First part fresh gales and hazy with rain. Later moderate and fair. Employed sounding and surveying.  
Friday 31st Jul. NW
calm
First part fresh gales and cloudy. Later calm and fair. Employed sounding and surveying.  

 

August 1767.

 
Week
Days
Month
Day
Winds Weather Remarks Notes
Saturday 1st Aug. W by N
SE
First part moderate and fair. Later fresh gales with rain. Employed surveying and sounding.  
Sunday 2nd SE First part moderate and fair. PM Employed sounding and surveying. Cook moved the Grenville up the inlet south of Keppel Island into the narrow part of Hawkes Harbour (37'N, 57° 17'W).
Monday 3rd W
NW
Fresh gales and hazy with rain. Employed surveying and sounding. Hawkes Harbour extends east and widens into Hawkes Bay. Hawkes Bay and Harbour were named after Sir Edward Hawke, who had led the British fleet to victory at the Battle of Quiberon Bay off the French coast in 1759.
Tuesday 4th NE
S
Moderate and fair weather for the most part. Employed surveying and sounding.  
Wednesday 5th S
SE
Fresh breezes and fair weather. Employed sounding.  
Thursday 6th SE Ditto weather. Employed surveying and sounding.
AM Came in here His Majesty's ship Favourite.
HMS Favourite
Friday 7th SE
E
Moderate and fair weather. Employed as before.  
Saturday 8th ESE Moderate and fair weather. Employed surveying and sounding.  
Sunday 9th SE
ESE
Fresh and middle part calm and fair. Later moderate and hazy with rain. At 6 AM weighed and came to sail.  
Monday 10th E
NE
Fresh breezes and hazy with rain. Employed sounding both in the vessel and boat.
At 6 PM came to in 7 fathoms water in Great Port aux Choix and moored with a hawser fast a shore.
AM Loosed sails to dry.
Port au Choix (50° xx'N, 57° yy'W)
Tuesday 11th SW
W
Fresh gales and rain for the first part. Later moderate and hazy with rain. PM Unbent the sails.
AM Weighed and warped higher up the harbour.
 
Wednesday 12th SW
W
Moderate and hazy for the first part. Later rain. At 6 PM hauled ashore in order to clean her bottom. AM Scrubbed and payed the starboard side.  
Thursday 13th SE Moderate and fair weather. PM Scrubbed and payed the larboard side.
At 10 AM hauled off afloat. AM Weighed and shifted our berth and moored with a hawser fast a shore. Employed on the survey.
 
Friday 14th W Moderate and fair weather. Employed on the survey and sounding. Blacked the yards and tarred the rigging.  
Saturday 15th SW Ditto weather. Employed on the survey and overhauling the rigging.  
Sunday 16th NE Moderate and hazy with rain.    
Monday 17th SE Strong gales and squally with heavy rain.    
Tuesday 18th SW Ditto weather.    
Wednesday 19th sw First and middle part strong gales and squally with rain. Later fresh gales and hazy. AM The boat went away in order to survey and sound the Bay of St. Johns. St. John Bay (50° xx'N, 57° yy'W)
Thursday 20th SSW First and middle strong gales and fair. Later moderate and fair. Scraped the mast and sides and payed ditto.  
Friday 21st SW The first part moderate and fair. Later rain.    
Saturday 22nd SW Moderate and hazy for the most. PM The boat returned.  
Sunday 23rd ditto The first part fresh gales and rain. Later moderate with rain.    
Monday 24th SW First part fresh gales and hazy with rain. Later moderate and fair. Employed sounding.  
Tuesday 25th S
W
Little wind and fair. PM Anchored here a shallop from the Merlin sloop.
AM At 6 weighed and came to sail. Employed sounding in the Bay of St. John
 
Wednesday 26th WSW
SW by W
calm
Moderate and fair weather. Employed sounding St. John's Bay both in the vessel and boat. At noon Our Ladies Bubbies NE By N. A group of mountains 10 kilometres north of Blanc Sablon (51° 35'N, 57° 10'W) are the mountains referred to as Our Ladies Bubbies by Cook. They include Colline's Black Mountain and Colline White Est and lie just inside present-day Quebec, close to the Labrador border.
Thursday 27th SW
SE by E
First part light airs and fair weather. Later fresh breezes. Employed sounding the coast between Point Riche and Point Ferolle. Point Riche (50° xx'N, 57° yy'W)
Point Ferolle (50° xx'N, 57° yy'W)
Friday 28th WSW
SW
NE
First part fresh breezes and fair. Middle fresh fresh gales and squally with rain. Later moderate and fair. Employed sounding the coast to the southward of Point Riche. Cook was returning south down the coast to complete the survey of the Bay of Islands.
Saturday 29th NNE
SE
First part fresh gales and fair. Middle and later moderate and hazy with rain. Sounding the coast as before.  
Sunday 30th SSW
NE by E
First part moderate and foggy. Later moderate and fair. At 7 PM Guernsey Island SSW½W. Employed sounding as before. Cook had reached the Bay of Islands again.
Monday 31st Aug. NE
E
Moderate and fair. At 9 PM came to in York Harbour in 35 fathoms water, and moored with a hawser fast ashore.  

 

September 1767.

 
Week
Days
Month
Day
Winds Weather Remarks Notes
Tuesday 1st Sep. WSW First part fresh gales and fair. Later hazy with rain. Employed on the survey.  
Wednesday 2nd WSW First part fresh gales and hazy with rain. Employed on the survey.  
Thursday 3rd SW Fresh gales and hazy with rain for the most part of these 24 hours. Employed on the survey.  
Friday 4th W Strong gales and squally with rain.    
Saturday 5th W First part strong gales and squally. Later moderate and fair. PM Came to here a New England fishing schooner.  
Sunday 6th WSW Strong gales and hazy with rain for these 24 hours.    
Monday 7th WSW First part hard gales and cloudy with lightning. Later fresh gales and fair. Employed on the survey.  
Tuesday 8th WNW First part fresh breezes and cloudy. Later moderate and fair. AM The boat went up the River Humber in order to survey and sound ditto. Humber Arm (49° xx'N, 58° yy'W)
Wednesday 9th S Moderate and fair weather. Employed sounding. Humber River (49° xx'N, 57° yy'W)
Thursday 10th SW Ditto weather. Sailed hence the New England schooner.  
Friday 11th S Moderate and fair weather. Employed sounding and surveying.  
Saturday 12th WSW Moderate and fair weather. PM The boat returned from the River Humber having finished surveying and sounding ditto. Deer lake (49° xx'N, 57° yy'W)
Sunday 13th SW Fresh breezes and hazy with rain. Employed surveying and sounding.  
Monday 14th NW Moderate and hazy with rain. Employed wooding.  
Tuesday 15th SW Moderate and fair for the first part. Later hail. Employed wooding and watering.  
Wednesday 16th W Moderate and hazy weather. Employed surveying and sounding.  
Thursday 17th ENE Moderate and fair. AM Hove up the anchor and layed it highed up the harbour. Employed surveying and sounding.  
Friday 18th NE Moderate and fair weather. Employed surveying and sounding, wooding and watering.  
Saturday 19th NE Fresh gales and fair for the first. Later little wind and fair.    
Sunday 20th SW Moderate and fair weather    
Monday 21st variable Little wind and fair weather.    
Tuesday 22nd S Moderate and fair weather. PM Came in here His Majesty's schooner Hope. Employed sounding.  
Wednesday 23rd NNW Moderate and fair weather. Employed watering.  
Thursday 24th N
NNW
NNE
First part moderate and fair. AM Weighed and came to sail as did His Majesty's schooner Hope. Employed turning out of the bay. At 8 PM Guernsey Island E by S, between 1 or 2 miles. At noon Guernsey S by W. Cook has tried to leave the bay but is forced back in to anchor in Lark Harbour.
Friday 25th E
NNE
Moderate and fair weather. PM Came to in Lark Bay in 5 fathoms water.
AM Weighed and came to sail. Employed working out of the bay.
Lark Harbour (49° xx'N, 58° yy'W) lies just inside the southern entrance to the Bay of Islands, next to York Harbour. The name was already in use when Cook arrived in Newfoundland.
Saturday 26th NNE
SE
W
Moderate and fair weather. Employed turning out of the bay and sounding. At 8 PM Guernsey Island E by S between 1 or 2 miles. At noon Guernsey Island S by W½W, North Head NE by E.  
Sunday 27th W
S
SE
First and later parts light airs and fair. Middle moderate and cloudy with lightning. At 8 PM Guernsey Island SSW, Outer Shag Rock NE by E½E. At 7 AM carried away the fore topmast. Got down the main topmast. Got it up foreward. Carpenters employed in tonguing the main topmast for a mainmast. At noon Guernsey Island E. Cook and the Grenville had left the Bay of Islands. Cook had finished the survey for the year and now began his return to Britain via St. John's.
Monday 28th W by S
S by W
Moderate and fair weather. At noon Bay of Port aux Port SSE 6 leagues. Employed in getting up the main topmast and rigging ditto.  
Tuesday 29th SW First part fresh gales and cloudy weather. Middle and later light airs and cloudy weather. At noon Cape St. George SSW½W, distance 7 leagues.  
Wednesday 30th Sep.       There is no entry for Wednesday 30th September in the Log. The Journal is correct until 27 September then has several incorrect matchings of day with date before sorting itself out on Friday 02 October.

 

October 1767.

 
Week
Days
Month
Day
Winds Weather Remarks Notes
Thursday 1st Oct. SSW
S by W
The first and middle parts strong gales and squally with rain. Later calm and foggy with rain. At 5 PM Red Island SE by S.  
Friday 2nd E by S The first part light airs and foggy. Middle and later hard gales and squally. At 3 PM close reefed both topsails and handed in 1st and 2nd reef in the mainsail. Hauled up the foresail and brought to under the mainsail. Double reefed.  
Saturday 3rd WSW Hard gales and squally weather for the first and later parts. Middle light airs and cloudy. At 8 PM set the foresail and both topsails.  
Sunday 4th W
NW by W
Fresh gales and hazy. At 4 AM Cape Anguille SE, 4 miles. At 7 AM came to in Codroy Road. South point [of] Codroy Island W. Stormy Point S¼W.  
Monday 5th NW Fresh gales and fair weather. At 4 AM weighed and came to sail. At noon Cape Ray SE by E 3 or 4 leagues.  
Tuesday 6th SSE First and later fresh gales and squally. Middle moderate with rain. PM Cape Ray E½N. At noon East point of La Poile Bay N½E, about 5 or 6 leagues. High land of Grand Bruit NNE. Cook was now sailing east along the south coast of Newfoundland to St. John's where he would report to Governor Palliser.
Wednesday 7th WNW Moderate and clear weather. At 7 AM Cape La Hune NNE. At noon Cape Miquelon East.  
Thursday 8th SW First part moderate and fair. Middle and later gales and fair. At 6 AM Cape Langley SSE½E, 2 or 3 leagues. At 2 AM handed both topsails. Hauled up the foresail and brought to under a double reefed main sail. At 11 bore up.  
Friday 9th WSW
W
Hard gales and squally with a large sea. At 4 PM saw Pass Island. PM Came to in the west side of Facheux Bay in 15 fathoms of water and moored with the kedge anchor.  
Saturday 10th W Moderate and fair weather. AM At 5 unmoored and hove up and came to sail.  
Sunday 11th SW
SSW
NW
Moderate and cloudy weather. At 5 PM Cape Miquelon WSW 3 or 4 leagues. At 8 Cape Miquelon S by W, 3 leagues. At noon Cape Chaperough Rouge NE by E about 5 leagues.  
Monday 12th WNW Fresh gales and hazy weather. Cape Chappeau Rough NNW½W, 6 or 7 leagues. At noon Cape Pine N by E. Cape Rayce NE½E.  
Tuesday 13th SSE
SE
First part light airs and fair weather. Later foggy. Cape Rayce, Cape Bollard in one and Mistaken Point N20ºW. Mistaken Point (46° xx'N, 53° yy'W)
Wednesday 14th SW Clear weather. Saw Cape Spear bearing WSW about 1 league. Made sail for St. John's Harbour. At ½ past 3 came to in the Narrows and warped within Chain Rock. At 7 got under weigh and turned up the Harbour. PM came to in 6 fathoms water with the small bower and bower and moored with the kedge anchor. Found riding here Commodore Palliser in the Guernsey with the Merlin sloop and Hope schooner. The Narrows (47° xx'N, 52° yy'W)
Chain Rock (47° xx'N, 52° yy'W)
Thursday 15th N Moderate and fair. Employed overhauling the rigging and brewing beer. Carpenters employed in making a fore topmast.  
Friday 16th variable Ditto weather. Came in here His Majesty's ship Niger. Employed as before.  
Saturday 17th ditto Moderate and hazy weather. Employed getting ready for sea.  
Sunday 18th SW Little wind and fair weather.    
Monday 19th NNW Moderate and fair weather. Sailed hence His Majesty's sloop Merlin.  
Tuesday 20th variable Moderate and fair. PM Got on board the new fore topmast and got it up. Employed rigging ditto.  
Wednesday 21st NNE Moderate and fair weather. AM Unmoored and hove short.  
Thursday 22nd NE Ditto weather.    
Friday 23rd N
NNE
Moderate and hazy with sleat. AM Hove up and came to sail. At noon Cape Spear WSW about 5 miles.  

  From Saturday 24 October to Saturday 07 November the Grenville was on the open sea crossing the Atlantic out of sight of land. The log records weather details and sailing operations. On Sunday 08 November, England came into sight again.

 

November 1767.

 
Week
Days
Month
Day
Winds Weather Remarks Notes
Sunday 8th Nov. W (1) Fresh breezes and clear weather.
(12) Ditto weather.

(12) Moderate and cloudy.

(12) Spoke with an English ship who informed us Portland bore N 8 leagues distance.

(6) Saw the Isle of White bearing ENE.
(9) Needle Point NNE.
(12) Dunnose NW by W about 6 leagues.

The Needles
Monday 9th W
NW
(1) (pm) Fresh breezes and cloudy. (8) Saw the Seven Cliffs.
(11) Beachy Head NNE about 2 leagues.

(4) Dungeness Light NE by N about 2 leagues.
(7) South Foreland N.
(10) Lay to and sent the boat on shore at Deal for the pilot.
(12) Came aboard a pilot. Hoisted in the boat and made sail.

Seven Sisters
Tuesday 10th SW
WSW
Moderate and foggy weather. At 3 PM came to off Margaret in 7 fathoms water. St. Peter's Church S by E. At 8 weighed and came to sail. At noon standing over the flats under fore sail. Reefed mainsail and close reefed fore topsail. Margate
Wednesday 11th SW
W
All the fore part a hard storm of wind with excessive heavy squalls and showers of rain. At 2 PM took in the fore topsail. At 4 anchored above the Nore Light (it bearing ESE) in 7 fathoms water with the small bower and veered away to a whole cable that not bringing her up let go best bower and veered away on both to a whole cable upon one and a cable and ½ upon the other. Was then in 6 fathoms water. Struck yards and topmasts. At 6 the best bower parted and we trailed into shoal waters. At 7 she struck very hard. Got a spring upon the small bower cable and cut the cable in order to cast her head to the southward and get her under weigh but the spring gave way and she cast to the northward directly ashore upon the shoal called the Knock. Got the topsails and crossjackyard down upon deck and she lay pretty easy until the flood made when the gales still continuing she struck very hard and lay down upon her larboard bildge. Hoisted out the boats and hove everything overboard from off the deck and secured all the hatchways. At 12 at night there being no prospect of the gale ceasing took all the people away in the boats. The cutter made the best of way to Sheerness for assistance.
At 10 AM the weather being moderate came on board with proper assistance from Sheerness Yard in order to get the vessel off and found she had received little damage. Began to lightening her by heaving out shingle ballast and pigs of iron ballast and to lay out anchors to heave her off.
The Knock
Thursday 12th W
WSW
First part moderate breezes and fair. Later strong gales and hazy with rain. At high water PM the vessel floated. Hove her off and made sail for Sheerness. At 5 anchored between Sheerness and the Nore Light.
AM Employed clearing the decks and putting the hold to right.
 
Friday 13th SW
WSW
First part strong gales and hazy with rain. Later moderate and fair. PM Got from the Yard 2 topsail yards and a crossjack yard and such stores as we wanted. Discharged the Deal pilot and took on board a river pilot.
AM Employed rigging the topsailyards and bonding the sails. At noon weighed and came to sail.
 
Saturday 14th WSW First part moderate breezes and fair weather. Strong gales and squally with showers of rain. At 6 anchored in the Hope. At 11 weighed and came to sail. The Hope
Sunday 15th SW Moderate and fair weather. At 5 PM came to sail Halfway Reach.
At 2 AM weighed and came to sail. At 9 lashed along side the William & Mary Yacht off Deptford Yard.
William & Mary

  James Cook expected to return to Newfoundland. However, the Royal Navy had other plans for him and, early in 1768, he was appointed to command HM Bark Endeavour on its voyage to the Pacific. The rest is history!

  Please click here to return to the Cook in Newfoundland index page.
Please click here for 1767 Part 1: March to June.